Anchor tall furniture to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall

1 set · Mixed drill bit set (masonry, wood, HSS metal)

1 each · Pencil

1 each · Spirit level

1 each · Tape measure

AT-02Find your stopcock before you drill anythingFind your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely. You're about to drill into a wall, and if you ever hit a pipe you need to shut the water off in seconds, not minutes. If there's any doubt about what's behind the wall, be ready to isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit too.

AT-03Decide where the strap goes on the furniture and wallStand the furniture against the wall in its final position. Look at the back of the unit for a solid rail or frame member near the top — this is where the strap bracket needs to screw in, not into a thin hardboard back panel. Mark a matching point on the wall, roughly level with the top third of the furniture for the best anti-tip effect.

AT-04Work out what the wall is made of at that spotRun a stud detector over the marked area, and drag a magnet along it to pick up screw heads in a stud's line. A hollow, drum-like sound between two solid-feeling points usually means plasterboard on studs or dot-and-dab; a dead, solid knock all the way across usually means brick or block behind. If you're still not sure, drill a small 3mm pilot hole and look at what comes out: pale timber dust means a timber stud or batten, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and gritty red or grey dust means brick, block or masonry behind dot-and-dab.

AT-05Detect for cables and pipes, then drill the pilot holeRun a cable and pipe detector over the exact spot again, slowly, in both directions. Detectors miss cables that run deep, sit in metal conduit, hide behind metal-backed plasterboard, or run outside the usual safe zones — and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further — so treat a clear reading as a good sign, not a guarantee. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, then drill your pilot hole slowly and stop the moment you feel it break through.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

AT-06Fixing into solid brick or blockDrill with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of 45mm, fit a 40mm red or brown wall plug, then drive in the 50mm screw from the bracket kit. Solid masonry is the strongest fixing point of the five, so this is the safest option if you can position the bracket over it.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

2 each · 40mm wall plugs

2 each · 50mm screws

AT-07Fixing into a timber stud wallDrill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud, then drive a 50mm wood screw straight in — no plug needed. Don't rely on a hollow-wall toggle here: an anti-tip strap gets pulled on repeatedly, and only a screw into solid timber will hold that kind of load long-term. If the stud doesn't line up with where you need the bracket, either move the bracket a little to sit over the stud, or fit a timber noggin between the studs first.

1 each · 3mm wood drill bit

2 each · 50mm wood screws

AT-08Fixing into a metal stud wallNever use a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load, driven straight into the metal stud with no pilot hole needed for self-drilling types. A metal stud will not reliably hold an anti-tip strap on its own, because the strap gets pulled away from the wall as the furniture rocks — for this job, fix into a timber noggin fitted between the studs, or fix through to the masonry behind if there is any.

2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

1 each · Timber noggin (50x75mm, cut to width)

AT-09Fixing into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has an air gap of 10-40mm behind the plasterboard before you reach the solid masonry wall. Use a long dot-and-dab frame fixing, at least 75mm long, driven through the plasterboard, across the gap, and into the masonry behind — a short fixing that only grips the plasterboard will pull straight out under an anti-tip strap's load. Drill your pilot hole slowly through both layers and check the drill doesn't suddenly speed up (a sign you've hit the air gap) before it grips the masonry.

2 each · Dot-and-dab frame fixings (75-90mm)

AT-10Fixing into lath and plasterLath and plaster feels slightly springy and sounds hollow with gaps, unlike solid dot-and-dab. Find a timber lath or the batten behind it with a pilot hole first, since screwing into bare plaster between laths will crack it and pull out. If you can't find solid timber close to your marked point, drill through to the masonry wall behind (common in older solid-wall houses) and use a wall plug and screw as for brick, sized to reach past the lath and plaster into the masonry.

2 each · 40mm wall plugs

2 each · 60mm screws

AT-11Fit the wall bracketHold the bracket against the wall at your marked height, check it's level, and mark the screw holes through it. Drill and fix using whichever method matches your wall type from the steps above, then screw the bracket firmly in place.

AT-12Fix the strap to the furnitureScrew the other end of the strap bracket into the solid rail or frame member you identified earlier on the back of the furniture, not into thin hardboard. Use the screws supplied with the kit, and drill a small pilot hole first if the furniture is a hardwood to stop it splitting.

2 each · Kit-supplied furniture screws

AT-13Connect the strap and tidy upClip or buckle the strap between the two brackets and adjust it so the furniture sits flat against the wall with no slack. Give the top of the unit a firm push and pull to check the strap takes the strain, then vacuum up all drilling dust and wipe the wall down.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

1 each · Cloth