Box in pipes

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

1 each · Pencil

BP-02Gather your tools and materialsGet everything together before you start so you're not stopping halfway through. You'll need timber battens for the frame, a board to clad it, screws, a drill/driver, a saw, and a detector for the next step.

1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector

1 each · Cordless drill/driver

1 each · Panel saw or jigsaw

1 set · 3mm and 6mm masonry/wood drill bits

BP-03Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector along the wall where the battens will go. If it stays quiet and knocking sounds solid, you've got masonry. If it flags a stud, tap either side — hollow means plasterboard on a frame; check whether the frame is timber or metal.

1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector

BP-04Check your stopcock before you drill or cut anythingCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. A detector helps but misses deep cables, anything in metal conduit, and anything behind metal-backed plasterboard — metal studs will also confuse a cheap detector. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling near sockets or switches.

BP-05Cut the battens to lengthCut two long battens to run the full length of the pipe run for the top and bottom of the frame, and short battens for each end and any midpoints, spaced no more than 400mm apart. Check each cut with a mitre square so the frame goes together square.

3 each · Timber batten 32mm x 25mm x 2.4m

1 each · Mitre square

BP-06Fix the battens to the wall — method depends on what's behind itOn solid brick or block, drill 6mm holes 40mm deep, insert wall plugs and drive 40mm screws. On plasterboard over timber studs, screw a 40mm wood screw straight into the centre of each stud, checked with a pilot hole. On plasterboard over metal studs, use self-drilling metal-stud screws where a stud lines up, and hollow-wall toggle fixings for the plasterboard between studs — never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the void and grip the masonry behind, usually 60-75mm. On lath and plaster, find the timber lath by drilling a small pilot hole first and feel for wood; if you hit only plaster, use a spring toggle rather than hammering a plug into brittle lath.

1 pack · Wall plugs (assorted)

1 pack of 20 · Wood screws 40mm

1 pack of 10 · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

1 pack of 10 · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

1 pack of 10 · Long fixings for dot-and-dab (65mm)

1 pack of 4 · Spring toggles for lath and plaster

BP-07Screw the frame togetherWith the top and bottom battens fixed to the wall, screw the end and mid battens across them using 40mm wood screws to form a ladder-shaped frame. Check the frame is square and doesn't rock before moving on.

1 pack of 20 · Wood screws 40mm

BP-08Cut the cladding panel to sizeMeasure the frame and cut your chosen board — MDF, plywood or plasterboard — to match, allowing for a straight, tight fit at each end. For plasterboard, score a line with a utility knife against a straightedge and snap it along the score. For MDF or plywood, cut with a jigsaw or panel saw.

1 sheet (cut to size) · MDF or plywood board, 12mm

1 each · Utility knife

BP-09Fix the panel to the frameScrew the panel to the battens every 300mm using screws long enough to bite into the timber without poking through the face. Countersink each screw slightly below the surface so it can be filled.

1 pack of 20 · Wood screws 32mm

BP-10Fill, sand and finishFill every screw head and any joints between panel and wall with a general-purpose filler, let it dry, then sand smooth. Wipe away dust and apply a coat of primer if you plan to paint the box to match the room.

1 tub · General-purpose filler

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1 pack · Sandpaper, fine grit

1 500ml tin · Primer/undercoat

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BP-11Fit a removable panel if you need ongoing accessIf a stopcock, valve or meter sits inside the box, don't screw that section shut permanently — cut a separate panel and fix it with a couple of turn-buttons or a magnetic catch so it lifts out easily. If the pipework you're boxing in is gas, it must remain accessible for inspection and servicing, so build in access rather than sealing it away.

RULES

2 each · Turn-button catches

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KNOW THE RULES

Gas pipework must stay accessible for inspection under the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations — never permanently box in a gas valve, meter or joint.

BP-12Clean upVacuum up sawdust and filler dust from the floor and skirting, and wipe down the new box. Bag up offcuts and dispose of them with your household waste unless your council asks for separate timber recycling.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner