CP-06Secure the capped stub to the wallBefore you drill, run a cable and pipe detector over the spot, then still treat it as if something could be there — detectors miss deep cables, metal-backed board, and anything outside the usual zones. Check your stopcock is off and turns freely before you start; if you have any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first. Tap the wall: solid brick or block sounds dead and solid, a stud wall sounds hollow between the studs. Run a stud detector or a magnet across the wall to find the fixings holding the board on — a pilot hole brings out fine dust from a timber stud, or fine metal swarf from a metal one. In solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 35-40mm deep, fit a wall plug, then screw the clip on with a 30mm woodscrew. Into a timber stud, screw straight into the centre of the stud with a 30mm woodscrew, no plug needed. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a small rated toggle fixing — never a plain plastic plug or ordinary woodscrew, both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and the dab void and bite into the masonry behind, typically 50-60mm. On lath and plaster, find the timber stud or joist behind the laths and fix into that, since the lath alone can crumble under load.