Claw hammer: what it does and when to reach for it

Learn to hold a claw hammer, drive a nail straight, and pull one out cleanly.

HN-01Learn the parts and the gripA claw hammer has a flat striking face on one side of the head, and a curved, forked claw on the other for pulling nails. Hold the handle near the end, not up near the head - this gives you more control and more power. Your thumb should sit alongside the handle, not wrapped right round with your fingers overlapping it.

HN-02Start the nail with light tapsHold the nail near its head between your thumb and finger, point down on the wood. Tap gently 2-3 times just to stand it up on its own, then let go of the nail before swinging properly. Beginners often keep holding the nail while swinging hard - that's how you hit your fingers.

10 each · Nails (assorted, for practice)

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HN-03Drive it home with an elbow swingOnce the nail stands up by itself, swing from your elbow, not your wrist - your wrist just guides the final aim. Look at the nail head, not the hammer, and let the weight of the head do the work rather than forcing it. A good hit sounds solid and the nail sinks a little further each time.

HN-04Spot and fix a bending nailIf the nail starts leaning over, stop straight away - hitting it more will only bend it further or split the wood. Pull it back upright with your fingers while it's still loose enough to move, then carry on with softer, more level taps. The classic beginner mistake is hitting the head off-centre, which pushes the nail sideways.

HN-05Pull a nail out with the clawSlide the forked claw under the nail head, then rock the hammer backwards, using the head as a pivot, to lever the nail up. If the nail is short and near the surface, put a thin scrap of wood or card under the hammer head first - this stops the head denting or scratching the surface as you lever. Go slowly; a snapped or half-pulled nail is harder to remove than the original job.

1 each · Thin scrap wood offcut (for protecting the surface)

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HN-06Check the nail is properly drivenRun your finger over the nail head - it should sit flush with the surface or just slightly below it, not standing proud and not punched deep into a torn crater. The wood around it should look clean, without splits radiating out or hammer dents nearby. If the head is proud, a few more careful, straight taps will finish the job.

HN-07Know when to use something elseA claw hammer is for wood nails and general knocking, not for delicate trim work where you'd want a smaller pin hammer, and not for masonry - that needs a proper masonry nail and much more care, or a drill and wall plug instead. Never use a claw hammer to strike a chisel; that's what a mallet is for, and it will chew up the chisel handle.

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