Decorate a room in the right order — HomeGraft

Clear, repair, prime and paint a room in the correct order — ceiling, walls, then woodwork — for a smooth, lasting finish.

DEC-01Plan the job and measure upMeasure the room and work out how much paint you need — most 2.5L tins of emulsion cover about 25m² per coat, and you'll need two coats. Decide your order: ceiling, then walls, then woodwork last. Check the weather forecast if you're leaving windows open to dry paint, and pick a day when the room can be out of use for a few hours.

DEC-02Clear and protect the roomMove furniture into the middle of the room or out altogether, and take down curtains, blinds and pictures. Cover the floor and any remaining furniture completely with dust sheets, taping them to the skirting so they don't slip. Open a window or two — paint fumes build up fast in a closed room.

2 each · Cotton dust sheets

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DEC-03Fill holes and repair cracks before you paintFill old picture-hook holes and hairline cracks with multi-purpose filler, pressed in with a filling knife and left slightly domed so it doesn't shrink below the surface. On solid brick or block, filler goes on easily — build deep holes up in two thin layers rather than one thick one. On plasterboard, whether it's on timber studs, metal studs, or bonded on with dot-and-dab adhesive, don't overwork or scrub the filler — the paper face tears easily and opens the hole up further. On a lath-and-plaster wall or ceiling, the old lime plaster can be soft; use a flexible filler and press gently, and if an area feels soft or bouncy when you press it, the plaster key has likely failed and needs a plasterer, not filler.

1 tub · Multi-purpose filler tub, 330g

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1 each · Filling knife

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DEC-04Sand and dust down repairsOnce the filler is fully dry, sand it flush with fine sandpaper so you can't feel a ridge with your fingers. Wipe or vacuum away all the dust before you go any further — paint won't stick properly over a dusty surface.

1 pack · Fine sandpaper, 120–180 grit pack

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1 each · Sanding sponge

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DEC-05Wash down with sugar soapWash walls, ceiling and woodwork with sugar soap solution to remove grease, nicotine staining and general grime — this is especially important around light switches, door handles and in kitchens. Rinse with clean water and a separate cloth, then let everything dry fully before you mask up.

1 bottle · Sugar soap concentrate, 500ml

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2 each · Cleaning cloths

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DEC-06Mask up edges and fittingsRun masking tape along the top of the skirting, around window and door frames, and around light switches and sockets. Press the edge down firmly with your thumbnail so paint can't creep underneath. Leave switch and socket faceplates in place — there's no need to remove them, and doing so means working near live terminals.

1 roll · Masking tape, 50mm

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DEC-07Prime bare or repaired areasAny patch of bare filler, plaster or new plasterboard needs sealing before paint, or it will soak up the topcoat unevenly and show through as a dull patch — this is called a mist coat. Use a diluted matt emulsion (about 70% paint, 30% water) over plaster repairs, and a proper wood primer over any bare timber. Let it dry fully before the next coat.

1 tin · Quick-drying wood primer, 250ml

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DEC-08Paint the ceiling firstCut in around the edges with a brush where the ceiling meets the walls and light fittings, then roller the rest in overlapping strips while the cut-in edge is still wet. Use an extension pole so you're not stretching or standing on furniture. Two coats, left to dry fully in between, give the best finish.

1 tin · Ceiling white emulsion, 2.5L

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1 each · Cutting-in brush, 50mm

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1 set · Roller and tray set

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1 each · Extension pole

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DEC-09Paint the wallsCut in around the ceiling line, corners, skirting and fittings with a brush, then roller the main wall area in a 'W' pattern to spread the paint evenly before filling it in. Work one wall at a time so wet edges don't dry before you blend into them. Apply two coats, letting the first dry fully before starting the second.

2 tin · Wall emulsion, 2.5L

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DEC-10Paint the woodwork lastOnce the walls are fully dry, paint skirting boards, door frames and window sills with a satinwood or eggshell finish, using a smaller angled brush for control. Working last means any drips or splashes on the wall can be wiped off, rather than the other way round. Keep a wet edge along the length of each board to avoid visible brush marks.

1 tin · Satinwood paint, 750ml

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1 each · Angled sash brush, 25mm

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DEC-11Remove tape and dust sheetsPeel off masking tape while the paint is still slightly tacky rather than fully hard — this gives the cleanest line and stops the tape pulling paint off with it. Fold dust sheets inward as you lift them so any dust or splashes stay contained, rather than shaking them out in the room.

DEC-12Clean tools and tidy upWash water-based emulsion brushes and rollers in warm water with a little washing-up liquid until the water runs clear. For any oil-based paint, clean brushes with white spirit outdoors or in a well-ventilated space. Don't pour leftover paint down a drain or sink — reseal tins for future touch-ups or check your local council's guidance on disposing of the rest.

1 bottle · Washing-up liquid

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1 bottle · White spirit

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