First aid for common DIY injuries

Learn to spot, treat and know when to escalate the cuts, burns, splinters and shocks that happen most on DIY jobs.

FA-01Put together a basic first aid kit before you startA first aid kit is just a small box of supplies kept where you can reach it fast, not in a cupboard three rooms away. Keep it near your work area, not just in the car or under the stairs. Check it has plasters, a sterile dressing, tape, antiseptic wipes and gloves before you pick up a tool. Most DIY injuries happen in the first ten minutes after you realise you need something, so having it ready matters more than having it fancy.

1 box · Assorted plasters

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2 each · Sterile gauze dressing

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1 roll · Microporous tape

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10 each · Antiseptic wipes

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4 each · Disposable gloves

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1 each · Eyewash pod (sterile saline)

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FA-02Clean and dress a minor cut or grazeStop what you're doing and rinse the cut under clean running water for at least a minute. This washes out grit, sawdust or metal filings, which is what actually causes infections, not the cut itself. Pat it dry with clean kitchen roll, then cover with a plaster or gauze dressing. The mistake beginners make is covering a dirty wound straight away because they're in a rush to get back to the job.

1 each · Plaster

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1 each · Antiseptic wipe

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FA-03Deal with a splinter or small puncture woundA splinter is a fragment of wood, metal or plastic stuck under the skin. If you can see the end sticking out, use clean tweezers to grip it and pull it out at the same angle it went in, not straight up. Clean the area with an antiseptic wipe afterwards and cover it. If it's deep, broken off under the skin, or from something rusty like a nail, don't dig around for it yourself - see step FA-07.

1 each · Antiseptic wipe

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1 each · Plaster

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FA-04Cool a burn properly, straight awayA burn from a glue gun, angle grinder, hot pipe or iron needs cool running water, not ice, butter or a wet cloth. Hold the burnt skin under a running tap for a full 20 minutes - it feels excessive but it genuinely reduces damage. Remove any rings or watches near the area first, because burnt skin swells. The mistake beginners make is stopping after 30 seconds because the pain has eased; the cooling needs to continue for the full 20 minutes to work properly.

FA-05Flush dust, grit or a splash of chemical from an eyeTurn your head to the side with the affected eye down, and pour clean water or sterile saline gently from the inner corner outward for several minutes. Don't rub the eye - rubbing grinds grit further into the surface and makes it worse. If you were using a chemical product like paint stripper, check the product label for specific first aid advice as you flush. Any pain, blurred vision or redness that doesn't settle quickly means you go to A&E or an eye casualty unit, not home to carry on working.

1 each · Eyewash pod (sterile saline)

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FA-06Respond to a suspected electric shockIf someone gets a shock from a drill, cable or socket, do not touch them while they might still be in contact with the electricity - you can become a second casualty. Turn the power off at the consumer unit (the fuse box) first, or pull the plug out if that's safely reachable. Only then check if they're breathing and responsive, and call 999 if they've lost consciousness, have burns, or seem confused, even if they say they feel fine. Shocks can cause delayed heart problems, so anyone who's had a proper shock, not just a static tingle, should be seen by a medical professional.

FA-07Know when to stop treating it yourselfSome injuries need more than your first aid kit: bleeding that soaks through a dressing and keeps coming, a cut that gapes open or exposes fat or muscle, a burn bigger than your palm or on the face or hands, or any deep puncture from something rusty or dirty like an old nail. For heavy bleeding, apply firm direct pressure with a clean dressing and keep it there, don't keep lifting it to check, and call 999 if it doesn't slow down. A rusty or dirty puncture wound is also a reason to see a GP or nurse about a tetanus booster, since tetanus lives in soil and rust, not in the metal itself.

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