Fit a key holder to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a key holder securely to any wall type, using the correct fixing for metal studs, timber studs, masonry, dot-and-dab or lath and plaster.

KH-01Plan the position and gather your toolsPick a spot near the door at a comfortable height, roughly 1400-1500mm from the floor. Keep it at least 150mm away from door frames, sockets or switches. Lay everything out before you start: drill, correct bits, detector, spirit level, pencil and the fixings for your wall type.

1 each · Key holder/rack

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1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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KH-02Work out what the wall is made ofKnock the wall: a dull thud usually means solid brick or block, a hollow sound means plasterboard on studs or dot-and-dab. Run a magnet or stud detector across the hollow sound; regular metal ticks under the surface mean metal studs, and a clear line of screw heads roughly 400-600mm apart means timber studs behind plasterboard. If unsure, drill a small 2mm test hole in an inconspicuous spot: fine wood dust means timber, grey metallic swarf means a metal stud, and soft crumbly dust with a stiffer inner layer often means old lath and plaster.

1 each · Stud/metal detector

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1 each · 2mm drill bit

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KH-03Find hidden pipes and cables before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the 'safe zones'. Use your detector, but still assume something is there until you prove otherwise — detectors can miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and metal studs can confuse cheap detectors further. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

KH-04Mark and level the fixing holesHold the key holder against the wall at your chosen height and check it's level with a spirit level. Mark the centre of each fixing hole lightly with a pencil. Use a strip of masking tape over the marks to stop the drill bit skating on a painted or tiled surface.

1 roll · Masking tape

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KH-05Drill the hole to suit your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill 6mm with a masonry bit to 40mm deep. Timber stud: drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud only. Metal stud: most self-drilling fixings need no pilot hole at all, so check the fixing packet first; dot-and-dab or lath and plaster: drill through the plasterboard or lath at the marked point and stop once you feel the void behind, ready for the fixing in the next step.

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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1 each · 2mm wood drill bit

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KH-06Fit the correct anchor or screw for your wallSolid brick or block: push in a red plastic wall plug and use a 4x40mm screw. Timber stud: drive a 4x40mm wood screw straight into the pilot hole in the stud centre — no plug needed. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a spring toggle rated for the weight; never use a plain plastic plug or an ordinary wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing at least 75mm long so it passes through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and bites into the masonry behind; lath and plaster: use a plasterboard spring toggle rather than screwing directly into the old lath, which cracks easily.

4 each · Red plastic wall plugs (6mm)

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4 each · 4x40mm wood screws

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4 each · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings

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4 each · Spring toggle fixings

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4 each · 75mm frame fixing screws (dot-and-dab)

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KH-07Screw the key holder onto the fixingsLine up the key holder's fixing holes with the anchors and drive the screws home with a screwdriver or drill on a low torque setting. Don't overtighten a metal-stud toggle or you'll crush the plasterboard around it. Check the piece is level once fixed.

1 each · Screwdriver or drill driver

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KH-08Test it and clear upHang a bunch of keys and give the holder a firm downward and outward tug to check it holds. Remember a metal stud fixing on its own won't take real weight or repeated pulling — if you ever swap this for something heavier like a coat hook that gets yanked, fit a timber noggin behind the board or fix through to solid masonry instead. Vacuum up any drilling dust and dispose of packaging.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

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1 each · Dust sheet

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