Fit a wireless burglar alarm kit

Fit a wireless alarm kit safely, checking wall type and hidden cables and pipes before you drill or screw anything.

AL-01Unbox the kit and plan your layoutLay out every part and check it against the box list: hub, keypad, PIR sensors, door/window contacts, external siren and fobs. Walk round the house before fixing anything and decide where each part will go. Put the hub near your router and a power socket, the keypad by the door you use most, PIR sensors in room corners with a clear view, and contacts on the doors and windows you want covered.

1 each · Wireless alarm kit (hub, keypad, 2x PIR sensors, 4x door/window contacts, external siren, fobs)

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AL-02Work out what's behind each fixing pointRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall — regularly spaced screw heads under plasterboard mean a timber or metal stud wall. Tap the wall: a dull thud means solid brick, block, or dot-and-dab on masonry; a hollow sound between studs means an empty cavity; a wide, slightly springy hollow sound in an older house often means lath and plaster. Drill a small pilot hole somewhere hidden: timber dust means a wood stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and reddish or grey dust means masonry.

1 each · Stud, pipe and cable detector

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AL-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, so scan with your detector but still treat every point as live until you've proven it isn't. Detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or confused by a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry a pipe.

AL-04Fix the control panel (hub) to the wallScrew the hub bracket up using a fixing that suits the wall: a wood screw straight into the centre of a timber stud; a self-drilling or toggle-type metal-stud fixing if it's a metal stud (never a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, it will strip straight through 0.5mm steel); a plasterboard toggle rated for the hub's weight if fixing between studs; or a 6mm masonry plug and screw drilled to the plug's stated depth in solid brick or block. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the void and grip the masonry behind. Plug the hub in and connect it to your router if it needs a wired connection.

1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Masonry wall plugs and screws (pack)

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AL-05Fit the keypad by the entry doorChoose a spot at arm's height, out of sight from any window, near the door you use to come in. Use the same wall-type rule as the hub: wood screw into a timber stud, metal-stud fixing into a metal stud, plasterboard toggle between studs, or masonry plug in brick or block. Keep it away from direct sunlight and radiators, which can affect the battery and electronics.

1 pack · Assorted stud/masonry fixings (kit or leftover from hub)

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AL-06Fit the door and window contactsStick or screw the small part to the fixed frame and the larger part to the moving door or window, keeping them lined up within the gap the manual specifies, usually under 10-15mm. Most kits include strong double-sided pads for UPVC and painted wood; use the supplied small screws instead on rough, cold or damp surfaces. Open and close each door and window and check the hub or app registers it correctly.

1 pack · Double-sided fixing pads (kit supplied)

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1 pack · Small self-tapping screws (kit supplied)

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AL-07Fit the PIR motion sensorsMount sensors around 1.8-2.2m high, angled into the room, away from direct sun, radiators and anywhere a pet could set it off. Fix into a timber stud centre with a wood screw, use a self-drilling or toggle metal-stud fixing into a metal stud (never a plain wall plug), or fit a small plasterboard toggle if fixing between studs, since a PIR is light. In solid brick, block or dot-and-dab, use a masonry plug and screw long enough to reach the masonry behind the dab. On lath and plaster, screw into a wood lath if you've found one, or use a toggle sized for softer, older plaster.

1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack)

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1 pack · Masonry wall plugs and screws (pack)

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AL-08Fit the external siren boxMount the siren high on an outside wall, under an eave if possible, at least 2.5m up to keep it out of easy reach. This is almost always solid brick or block, so drill with a masonry bit sized to the plug (usually 6mm) to the depth stated on the pack, and use a screw long enough to grip the full plug length. Seal any cable entry with a smear of exterior mastic to stop water getting in behind the box.

RULES

1 pack · Masonry plugs and screws, 50mm

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1 tube · Exterior mastic sealant

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KNOW THE RULES

Some council noise policies require audible intruder alarms to cut off automatically, commonly after around 20 minutes — check your alarm's settings match this. If your home is listed or in a conservation area, check with your council before fixing anything to an outside wall.

AL-09Test the whole systemArm the system and walk-test every PIR sensor and contact, checking the hub or app logs each trigger correctly. Check the external siren sounds and cuts off on schedule, and that both fobs and the keypad arm and disarm the system. Fit fresh batteries to any battery-only sensor now, before closing everything up.

1 pack · Batteries (as specified by kit, e.g. AA/CR123A)

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AL-10Tidy upSweep or vacuum drilling dust from each fixing point and wipe down surfaces. Pack away spare fixings, packaging and the manual somewhere handy in case you add sensors later. Write down the master code and any engineer code somewhere safe, not on the kit itself.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner or dustpan and brush

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