Fit mosaic tile sheets

Fit mosaic tile sheets as a splashback, working safely around sockets and finishing with a neat, sealed edge.

MT-01Check the wall and clear the areaStrip off any wallpaper, sand back flaking paint, and wipe the wall down with sugar soap so the surface is clean and sound. Cover the worktop and floor below with a dust sheet. Take everything off the wall you're tiling, including any shelves or hooks.

1 bottle · Sugar soap

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 pack · Sandpaper (medium grit)

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MT-02Know what's behind the wall before you startThe right prep depends on what the wall is made of. Solid brick or block (plastered over) is the simplest — a standard cement-based tile adhesive goes straight on, once any very absorbent patches are sealed with tile primer. Plasterboard on timber or metal studs needs a flexible tile adhesive, because the board flexes slightly; tap the board first to check it's firmly fixed with no soft or bouncy spots. Dot-and-dab plasterboard also needs flexible adhesive, since the board sits on adhesive blobs rather than a solid backing — don't hang anything heavy off a dot-and-dab wall later just because it's tiled. Lath and plaster is old and can crumble; tap it gently, and if it feels soft, hollow or bouncy, get it boarded over with plasterboard or plywood before you tile rather than risk it failing later.

1 500ml tin · Tile primer

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MT-03Isolate any socket in the tiling areaIf a socket sits within your tiling area, turn off the circuit at the consumer unit before you touch it, and check it's dead with a socket tester. Undo the two screws holding the faceplate and let it hang, or unscrew it fully and tape the wires safely to one side. Mask around the socket box with tape so adhesive and grout can't get inside it.

RULES

1 each · Socket tester

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1 roll · Masking tape

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KNOW THE RULES

In England and Wales, Part P covers notifiable electrical work in kitchens and bathrooms. Simply isolating and refitting an existing faceplate isn't notifiable, but if you're not confident working near live wiring, get a qualified electrician instead.

MT-04Mark out your layoutFind the centre point of the area and draw a level vertical line with a spirit level, so your first sheet goes on straight rather than lining up with an uneven edge. Dry-lay one sheet against the line to check the grout gaps line up with any tiles either side, and mark where full sheets will end and cut pieces will be needed.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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MT-05Spread the adhesiveComb an even bed of tile adhesive onto the wall with a notched trowel, working in a section no bigger than about 600mm square so it doesn't skin over before you tile it. Use a flexible adhesive on any plasterboard, dot-and-dab or stud wall, as covered in step MT-02.

1 10kg tub · Flexible tile adhesive

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1 each · Notched trowel

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MT-06Press the mosaic sheets into placePress each sheet firmly into the adhesive, then bed it in evenly by tapping across the whole sheet with a grout float wrapped in a cloth. Keep the gap between sheets the same as the gaps within each sheet, using spacers if that helps. Wipe off any adhesive that squeezes up between the tiles straight away.

20 sheet · Mosaic tile sheets (300x300mm)

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1 pack · Tile spacers

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MT-07Cut sheets to fit edges and around the socketFor a straight cut across a whole sheet, score and snap the backing mesh with a utility knife, or use a tile cutter for a clean edge on individual pieces. For fiddly shapes around the socket box, snip individual mosaic tiles to size with tile nippers rather than trying to cut the whole sheet in one go. Wear safety glasses when cutting.

1 each · Tile nippers

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1 each · Utility knife

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1 pair · Safety glasses

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MT-08Leave the adhesive to cureLeave the tiles undisturbed for at least 24 hours, or longer in a cold room, before grouting. Check the adhesive tub for the exact curing time. Remove any spacers once the adhesive has firmed up.

MT-09Grout the tilesPush grout into all the joints with a rubber grout float, working it in at an angle so it fills every gap. Wipe off the excess diagonally across the tiles with a damp sponge before it dries, then buff off the haze with a dry cloth once it's touch-dry.

1 5kg bag · Tile grout

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1 each · Rubber grout float

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1 each · Sponge

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MT-10Seal edges, reconnect the socket and clean upRun a bead of silicone sealant along any joint where the tiles meet the worktop or another surface, so water can't get behind the tiling. Once the sealant has skinned over, refit the socket faceplate and turn the circuit back on at the consumer unit, checking the socket works. Clean all your tools and wipe down the tiles, then dispose of any leftover adhesive and grout.

1 tube · Sanitary silicone sealant

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1 each · Sealant gun

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1 each · Cloth

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