Fix a sagging curtain track

Take down the sagging track, check what's behind your wall or ceiling, then refit it with the right fixing so it holds curtains securely.

AB-01Prepare the room and take the track downLay a dust sheet below the window and unhook or unclip the curtains. Unscrew the track from its brackets, or unclip it if it's a track-and-glider type, and take the whole thing down. Check the old brackets, screws and any wall plugs for wear, cracking or pull-out damage — this tells you why it sagged.

1 each · Dust sheet

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AB-02Work out what's behind your wall or ceilingRun a stud detector or a strong magnet along the wall to find screw heads holding plasterboard to studs. Tap the surface — a dull thud means solid brick or block, a hollow sound means a stud wall or dot-and-dab. If you're still unsure, drill a small 3mm pilot hole in a hidden spot: fine white dust means masonry or plasterboard, timber shavings mean a wood stud, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud. Lath and plaster (common pre-1950s) feels slightly springy and sounds hollow and uneven because of the wooden laths under the plaster.

1 each · Stud detector

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AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the obvious zones, so scan the area with a cable and pipe detector first — then still drill carefully as if something's there. Detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start. If in any doubt, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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AB-04Fixing into solid brick or blockMark the new fixing point and drill with a masonry bit sized to your plug, usually 6mm for a No.8 screw. Drill about 5mm deeper than the plug length, push the plug in flush, then drive a 40-50mm screw through the bracket into it. Solid masonry gives the strongest fixing of any wall type here.

4 each · Wall plugs (6mm)

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4 each · Screws 40-50mm

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AB-05Fixing into plasterboard on timber studsConfirm the stud centre using your earlier pilot hole test, then mark the fixing there so the screw bites full timber. Drill a 2-3mm pilot hole into the stud, then drive a 40mm wood screw through the bracket, plasterboard and into the stud. Never fix into plasterboard alone between studs — it will pull straight out under the weight of the curtains.

4 each · Wood screws 40mm

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AB-06Fixing into plasterboard on metal studsMetal studs are common in flats and anything built or refitted since the 1990s — a pilot hole giving bright metal swarf instead of timber dust confirms it. Never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw here; it strips straight through the thin 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw for light fixings, or a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the weight if fixing into the board between studs. A curtain track pulls sideways steadily, so for a heavy or long track fix into the metal stud itself, not just the board.

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud screws

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4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchor

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AB-07Fixing into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab walls have a 20-50mm gap between the plasterboard and the masonry behind, held with blobs of adhesive. Use a long screw and matching plug, typically 75-100mm, that passes through the board and adhesive dabs and grips the solid masonry behind. Drill slowly — if the bit suddenly feels loose partway through, you've hit the gap and need to keep going until it bites into the masonry.

4 each · Long masonry screws 75-100mm

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4 each · Matching wall plugs

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AB-08Fixing into lath and plasterLath and plaster has thin wooden strips nailed across the frame with plaster keyed between them, and it crumbles easily if you drill into bare plaster. Locate a solid lath or the timber frame behind with your detector, and drill your pilot hole there instead. Use a screw long enough to pass through the lath and plaster and grip solid timber behind, and go slowly to avoid cracking the surrounding plaster.

4 each · Wood screws 50mm

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AB-09Refit the track and rehang the curtainsScrew the brackets back into place using the fixing suited to your wall type, checking each one is tight and level with a spirit level. Clip or hook the track back onto the brackets, then rehang the curtains and slide them along the track to check they run smoothly.

1 each · Spirit level

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AB-10Tidy up and testVacuum up any dust and debris from drilling and fold away the dust sheet. Dispose of any old, worn-out fixings you removed. Stand back and check the track sits level and holds firm under the full weight of the curtains.

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