PAINTING & DECORATING

Hang a wall mural

Prepare your wall, plan the panels, then paste and smooth a wall mural into place for a clean, bubble-free finish.

WM-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture and rugs away from the wall so you have full access. Lay dust sheets along the skirting and floor. Take down curtains, pictures and anything fixed to the wall you are papering, so it's completely clear.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 roll · Masking tape
WM-02Work out what's behind your wall surfaceTap the wall lightly across its width. Solid brick or block behind plaster gives a dull, solid knock throughout. Plasterboard on timber or metal studs sounds hollow between the uprights, spaced roughly 400mm or 600mm apart, with a firmer knock where a stud sits. Dot-and-dab plasterboard sounds hollow almost everywhere, because the board is stuck to the masonry with adhesive blobs rather than fixed all over, and lath and plaster (common in homes built before about 1930) feels slightly springy and sounds duller and softer. This matters for a mural because a loose or drummy patch on dot-and-dab or lath and plaster won't hold heavy pasted panels. Press firmly across the wall and listen for anywhere that sounds different or moves — get any loose board or plaster re-fixed by a plasterer before you paper over it.
WM-03Fill cracks and holesFill any cracks, old screw holes or dents with a fine surface filler using a filling knife. Expect more filling on lath and plaster, which is often uneven, than on a flat plasterboard wall. Leave the filler to dry fully — usually a couple of hours — before you go near it with sandpaper.
1 each · Fine surface filler (500g tub)
1 each · Filling knife
WM-04Sand the surface smoothSand every filled patch flat with fine sandpaper wrapped round a sanding block. Run a flat hand over the whole wall to feel for ridges, screw heads or old wallpaper edges — a mural shows up every one of these once it's hung. Wipe away the dust with a dry cloth.
1 pack · Sandpaper (assorted grit pack)
1 each · Sanding block
1 each · Cloth
WM-05Wash the wall downWash the whole wall with sugar soap and warm water to remove grease, nicotine staining and loose dust. Rinse with a clean, damp sponge, then let the wall dry completely before you carry on — a few hours, or overnight, is safest.
1 each · Sugar soap (500ml)
1 each · Sponge
1 each · Bucket
WM-06Seal or line the wall if it needs itNew plaster, lath and plaster, and dot-and-dab plasterboard are all more absorbent than painted plasterboard, so paste dries too fast on them unless you seal first. Size the wall with diluted wallpaper paste or a proper size and let it dry. If the wall is very uneven — common on lath and plaster or old brick — hang lining paper horizontally first and leave it overnight before starting the mural.
1 each · Wallpaper size sachet
1 roll · Lining paper (roll, optional)
1 each · Pasting brush
WM-07Mark a true vertical starting lineDecide where the mural's first edge or centre should land, then use a spirit level to draw a plumb line on the wall in pencil. Work off this line, not off a doorframe or corner, because most walls are slightly out of true. Check the mural will land centrally over any feature you want it aligned with, such as a chimney breast.
1 each · Pencil
WM-08Dry-lay and check the panel orderLay the mural panels out flat, in order, on a clean floor or table. Check the numbering on the back of each panel and match the pattern across the joins before you cut anything. Note which edge overlaps which — most panels butt join edge to edge rather than overlap.
1 each · Wall mural kit
WM-09Trim the panels to lengthMeasure your wall height and add 100mm trim allowance top and bottom to each panel. Cut each one with a sharp trimming knife and a straight edge on a flat cutting surface, to keep the edges clean and straight.
1 each · Trimming knife
1 each · Steel straight edge
1 each · Cutting mat
WM-10Paste the wall, not the paperMost modern murals are paste-the-wall, non-woven material — check your instructions to confirm. Paste a section of wall slightly wider than one panel with a pasting brush or roller, working out from the plumb line. Only paste as much as you can cover in the next few minutes so it doesn't dry out.
1 tub · Ready-mixed wallpaper paste
WM-11Hang the first panelLift the first panel to the wall and line its edge up exactly with your plumb line, leaving the trim allowance overlapping top and bottom. Smooth it out from the centre outward with a smoothing brush, pushing out air bubbles as you go. Check it's still vertical against your pencil line before moving on.
1 each · Smoothing brush
WM-12Hang the remaining panelsPaste the next section and hang each following panel edge to edge, matching the pattern carefully before smoothing it down. Run a seam roller gently along each join to flatten it without squeezing paste out onto the surface. Wipe away any paste at the join straight away with a clean, damp sponge.
1 each · Seam roller
WM-13Trim the top and bottom edgesOnce the mural is fully hung, run a trimming knife along a straight edge at the ceiling line and skirting to cut away the trim allowance cleanly. Change the blade often — a blunt blade drags and tears the damp paper instead of cutting it.
1 pack · Trimming knife blades (pack)
WM-14Clean up and let it dryWipe down the skirting, floor and any paste splashes with a damp sponge before they dry hard. Let the room dry naturally with normal ventilation — don't use a heater or blow air at the mural, as fast drying can lift the edges. Once fully dry, usually after 24 hours, replace furniture and rehang anything you took down.
1 each · Sponge
1 each · Cloth

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