Hang lining paper — HomeGraft

Prepare your walls properly, then hang lining paper from the top down for a smooth, even base before painting or wallpapering.

LP-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture away from the walls and take down curtains, blinds and pictures. Lay dust sheets over the floor and any furniture you can't move. Turn off any wall lights on a dimmer or switch you'll be working near, just so you're not brushing paste past a live switch plate.

2 each · Dust sheets

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1 roll · Masking tape

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LP-02Check what's under the surfaceTap the wall as you go along it. A solid, dull thud usually means solid brick or block. A hollow sound means plasterboard on a stud wall, or dot-and-dab plasterboard sitting a few millimetres off solid masonry. If the wall feels slightly springy or bouncy when you press it, and the house is older, you're likely dealing with lath and plaster — treat it gently, as old plaster can be loose behind cracks.

LP-03Fill cracks and holesFill any cracks, old fixing holes and dents with a flexible decorator's filler, pushing it in firmly with a filling knife. Leave it to dry fully, then sand it smooth and flush with the surrounding wall. On lath and plaster, only fill hairline cracks — if plaster feels loose or crumbly, that patch needs proper repair before you paper over it.

1 tub · Flexible decorator's filler

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1 each · Filling knife

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1 sheet pack · Fine sandpaper

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LP-04Seal or size the wall before paperingBrush on a coat of size — wallpaper paste diluted with a bit more water than usual — and leave it to dry overnight. This matters most on bare or freshly plastered brick/block and on new, unskimmed plasterboard, both of which are porous and will suck moisture out of your paper unevenly. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, size lightly and don't soak the wall, as too much water can weaken the adhesive dabs behind the board. On lath and plaster, use a fungicidal size and again keep it light, since old plaster can loosen from the laths if it gets too wet.

1 pack · Wallpaper paste (for sizing)

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1 pack · Fungicidal paste

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1 each · Pasting brush

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LP-05Measure and cut your lengthsLining paper is usually hung horizontally, running along the wall rather than up and down, so it doesn't show through joins under top paper or paint. Measure the wall width, add about 100mm extra per length for trimming, and cut your lengths on a pasting table using long scissors or a sharp trimming knife. Number each length lightly in pencil on the back so you hang them in the right order.

4 roll · Lining paper roll (10m x 560mm)

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Long scissors or trimming knife

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LP-06Mix the pasteMix ready-mixed or powder wallpaper paste to the manufacturer's instructions in a clean bucket. Use the strength recommended for the weight of your lining paper — lightweight lining needs a thinner mix than heavy-grade paper. Stir out any lumps and leave it to thicken for a few minutes before use.

1 pack · Wallpaper paste (powder or ready-mixed)

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1 each · Bucket

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LP-07Paste the paper and let it soakLay a cut length pattern-side down on the pasting table and brush paste evenly from the middle outwards, covering right to the edges. Fold the pasted sides loosely together without creasing (called booking) and leave it to soak for the time stated on the paste packet, usually 5-10 minutes. This lets the paper expand slightly so it doesn't stretch and bubble once it's on the wall.

1 each · Pasting table

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LP-08Hang the first lengthStart at the top of the wall or in a corner, letting the paper overlap the ceiling and skirting by about 50mm for trimming later. Use a spirit level to keep the first length dead straight, since everything else lines up from it. Smooth it out with a wallpaper brush, working from the centre out to the edges to push out any air bubbles.

1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Wallpaper smoothing brush

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LP-09Hang the remaining lengthsButt each new length up against the last one without overlapping — a slight gap looks better than an overlap, which shows as a ridge once painted over. Smooth each length out the same way, then run a seam roller gently along every join once the paste has firmed up a little. Wipe off any paste squeezed out at the joins with a damp sponge before it dries.

1 each · Seam roller

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1 each · Sponge

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LP-10Work around switches and sockets safelyTurn off the power at the consumer unit before loosening any switch or socket faceplate — never work around a live faceplate with wet paste and a metal screwdriver. Paper over the switch or socket, then pierce the paper at the corners of the faceplate with scissors and trim back to the edges once the plate is unscrewed slightly. Push the trimmed paper behind the loosened plate before tightening it back down, and only restore power once everything is dry and the plate is secure.

1 each · Insulated screwdriver

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LP-11Trim at ceiling, skirting and cornersPress the paper into the angle at the ceiling and skirting with the back of your scissors to mark a crease, then peel back slightly and cut along the crease. In corners, cut the paper rather than trying to fold a full length round, and overlap the small cut piece into the next wall by about 10mm. Wipe all trimmed edges clean of paste as you go.

1 each · Sharp trimming knife

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LP-12Clean up and leave to dryWipe down the pasting table, brushes and any paste splashes on skirting or floor before they dry hard. Leave the room to dry naturally for at least 24 hours — don't use heaters to speed this up, as fast drying can cause the paper to bubble or lift at the seams. Once fully dry, the lining paper is ready for painting or top wallpaper.

1 pack · Bin bags

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