TOOLS AND HOW TO USE THEM

Jigsaw: common mistakes and how to avoid them

Learn to choose the right blade, secure your work and guide a jigsaw so cuts come out straight and clean.

JW-01Understand how a jigsaw cutsA jigsaw has a thin blade that moves up and down very fast, sticking out from the bottom of the tool. You push it forward gently and it cuts the material in front of it, following whatever line you steer it along. Because you guide it by hand, it's great for curves and shapes, but it's easy to wander off a straight line if you're not paying attention. Beginners often push too hard, thinking that speeds things up - it doesn't, it just makes the cut wobble.
JW-02Fit the right blade for the materialJigsaw blades vary by tooth size: fine teeth (close together) give a smoother cut in wood and are gentler on laminate or melamine, coarse teeth cut faster but rougher. There are separate blades for wood, metal and tile - using a wood blade on metal will blunt it in seconds. Push the blade in until it clicks or tightens in the holder (check your jigsaw's manual, as some use a lever and some use a screw). A common mistake is not pushing the blade in fully, so it works loose and wobbles mid-cut.
3 each · Jigsaw blades (wood, general purpose)
JW-03Mark a clear cutting lineDraw your line with a pencil, not a pen, so mistakes can be rubbed out. Use a straightedge for straight lines rather than trying to draw freehand. Look at the line, not the blade, while you cut - staring at the blade is the single biggest reason people drift off line.
JW-04Clamp the workpiece down firmlyNever hold the material in one hand and cut with the other - it will vibrate, move, and the cut will be ragged or dangerous. Clamp it to a workbench or a pair of sawhorses (trestle-like stands that hold work at a comfortable height), with the cut line hanging just clear of the bench so the blade doesn't hit the surface underneath. Beginners often clamp too close to the cutting line, which stops the jigsaw's base plate from sitting flat.
JW-05Check what you're actually cutting intoIf you're cutting into something already fixed in place, such as a floorboard, a worktop, or a panel on a wall, don't assume it's just wood behind the surface. Expect a cable or pipe to be there and prove otherwise, rather than trusting a cable detector on its own - detectors can miss cables that are buried deep, run in metal conduit, sit behind metal-backed plasterboard, or simply don't follow the usual safe zones, especially in older or DIY wiring. If there's any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit (the fuse box) before cutting, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could hide a pipe. This step costs you five minutes; a cut cable or pipe costs a lot more.
JW-06Start the cut and follow the lineRest the base plate flat on the material before you switch on - never start the blade in mid-air or already touching the surface at an angle. Switch on, let the blade get up to speed, then feed it forward slowly, keeping the base plate flat throughout. Steer gently with small corrections rather than yanking the jigsaw back onto the line if it drifts - a sharp correction leaves a visible notch in the edge.
JW-07Reduce splintering on the undersideJigsaws often leave a clean top edge but a splintered underside, because the blade cuts on the upstroke there. Stick a strip of masking tape along your cutting line before you cut, or better still, cut with the 'good' face down if the material will be seen from below. This matters most on laminate, melamine and veneered boards, less so on rough timber.
1 roll · Masking tape
JW-08Check you've cut it rightRun your finger along the cut edge - it should feel roughly straight, not wavy or stepped. Hold a try square (a right-angled measuring tool) against the edge to check it's cut square to the face, not leaning off at an angle. A small amount of splinter or roughness is normal and can be sanded smooth; a wandering line that misses your pencil mark by more than a few millimetres means you were steering too hard or the blade wasn't sharp enough.

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