Jigsaw: setting it up and changing the bit or blade

Learn to fit, change and set up a jigsaw blade safely before you ever cut anything.

JB-01Learn the parts before you touch the bladeA jigsaw has a base plate (the flat metal plate that sits on your material), a blade clamp near the front where the blade locks in, and a lever or dial for orbital action and speed. Unplug the jigsaw or take the battery out before you look closely at the clamp - this stops it firing up if the trigger gets bumped. Beginners often start pulling levers with the tool still powered, which is how fingers get nicked.

JB-02Pick the right blade for the jobJigsaw blades are marked for wood, metal or both, and have a tooth count - fewer teeth cut faster but rougher, more teeth cut slower but smoother. Almost all modern jigsaws take a T-shank blade (a T-shaped tab at the top); older or cheaper tools sometimes use U-shank. Check your jigsaw's manual or look at the old blade's shank shape before buying more.

1 each · Jigsaw blade (wood, general purpose)

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JB-03Remove the old bladeWith the tool unplugged or the battery out, find the clamp lever at the front, just above the base plate. Push or twist it - most jigsaws just need a quarter turn or a firm push, no tools needed - and the blade should drop out or pull free. If it feels stiff, don't force it hard; check you're moving the lever the right way, as forcing the wrong part can bend the clamp.

JB-04Fit the new blade the right way roundSlide the blade in with the teeth facing forward, away from the tool body, and the flat back of the blade against the small guide roller behind the clamp. Push it in until it stops, then let go of the lever so the clamp grips it. Give the blade a gentle tug by hand - it should not move or wobble; if it slides back out, it wasn't pushed in fully.

JB-05Set the base plate flatThe base plate should sit flush against your material with no gap, and square to the blade (not tilted), unless you deliberately want an angled cut. Some base plates have a bevel adjustment - a small lever or screw underneath - that lets you tilt the plate for angled cuts; make sure it's locked back to zero degrees for normal straight cuts. A base plate that's not flat will make the jigsaw judder and wander off your line.

JB-06Set the orbital action and speedOrbital action is a dial (usually 0 to 3) that makes the blade move slightly forward as well as up and down - higher settings cut faster but rougher, so use 0 for clean cuts and neat curves, higher for fast rough cuts in wood. Speed is usually a wheel near the trigger or a variable trigger itself - start slow, especially in metal or thin material, and speed up once you feel the blade biting cleanly. Running full speed on a first attempt is the most common beginner mistake and it often causes the blade to wander or snap.

JB-07Test cut on scrap and check you've got it rightClamp a scrap piece of wood down, plug the tool back in or refit the battery, and make a straight test cut. Done right, the cut edge is fairly clean, the jigsaw doesn't judder or veer off line, and the blade doesn't flex sideways. If the cut wanders, the blade may be loose, going in too fast, or the base plate isn't sitting flat - stop, unplug, and check those three things before trying again.

1 each · Scrap wood offcut

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