TILING

Lay metro tiles in a brick bond

Plan a brick-bond layout, fix a level batten, tile row by row, then grout for a neat metro splashback.

AB-01Check the wall and clear the areaRemove any old tiles, wallpaper or flaking paint back to a sound, flat surface. Work out what's behind the wall — solid brick or block, plasterboard on timber studs, plasterboard on metal studs, dot-and-dab plasterboard, or lath and plaster — because it changes how the wall takes weight and fixings later. Tap along the wall: a dull solid sound is masonry or dot-and-dab, an evenly spaced hollow drum sound is a stud wall, and an uneven, slightly springy sound often means lath and plaster. Wipe the surface down with sugar soap and lay a dust sheet on the floor.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 bottle · Sugar soap
1 each · Cloth or sponge
AB-02Work out what kind of stud wall you haveIf the wall is on studs, run a magnet or stud detector along the surface tracking the line of screw heads. Over a timber stud, a small pilot hole brings out fine timber dust; over a metal stud, a magnet clings to the frame and a pilot hole brings out silvery steel swarf instead. Metal studs are common in flats and anything built or refitted since the 1990s, and need completely different fixings. Mark the stud centres lightly in pencil so you know exactly where you can fix the support batten in the next step.
1 each · Magnet or stud detector
AB-03Plan the brick bond layoutFind the centre of the wall or splashback and mark a vertical line with your spirit level. Dry-lay a row of loose tiles along the bottom to check how the tiles at each end will finish, and shift the starting point so you don't end with a thin sliver cut. Brick bond offsets every other row by half a tile width, so mark that half-tile point too, ready for the second row.
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Tape measure
AB-04Fix a level batten to support the first rowCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the marked safe zones, and a detector can miss anything deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board — assume something is there until you've checked and proven otherwise. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, and isolate the circuit at the consumer unit and the water at the stopcock if there's any real doubt before drilling. Fix a straight softwood batten one tile-height up from the floor or worktop, checked level: in solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole and use a wall plug with a 40mm screw; into a timber stud, drive a wood screw into the centre of each marked stud; into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or toggle-type hollow-wall anchor, never a plain wall plug or wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel; through dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough (typically 75–100mm) to reach the solid masonry behind the dabs; into lath and plaster, locate a solid timber stud behind the laths where possible rather than fixing into the old plaster itself.
1 length · Softwood batten (25x50mm)
6 each · Wood screws 40mm
6 each · Wall plugs
6 each · Metal-stud self-drilling screws or toggle fixings
1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm
AB-05Mix and spread the adhesiveSpread a thin skim coat onto the wall with the flat edge of the trowel to key it in, then build up the main bed with the notched edge held at a steady angle for even ridges. Only cover an area you can tile within about 20 minutes before the adhesive starts to skin over.
1 tub (5L) · Ready-mixed wall tile adhesive
1 each · Notched trowel
AB-06Lay the first row on the battenPress tiles into the adhesive with a slight twisting motion, working outward from your centre line. Fit 2mm tile spacers between each tile to keep the joints even, checking with the spirit level as you go. Wipe off any adhesive that squeezes into the joints straight away, before it hardens.
1 · Metro tiles
50 each · Tile spacers 2mm
AB-07Continue in brick bond, row by rowStart each new row half a tile width off from the row below, using an offcut as a spacer to keep the brick bond consistent. Check level and alignment every two or three rows, since small errors add up quickly over a whole wall. Leave the tiles to set for the time stated on the adhesive packaging, usually 12–24 hours, before removing the batten.
AB-08Cut tiles for the edges and around fittingsMeasure and mark edge tiles individually, since walls are rarely perfectly square. Score and snap metro tiles with a manual tile cutter, or use an angle grinder with a diamond blade for notches around pipes or sockets. If you need to loosen a socket or switch faceplate to tile behind it, turn off that circuit at the consumer unit first — don't rely on the wall switch alone.
1 each · Manual tile cutter (score and snap)
1 each · Angle grinder with diamond blade
AB-09Remove spacers and batten, clean the jointsOnce the adhesive has fully cured, pull out the spacers and unscrew the batten, filling any gaps left behind with a little extra adhesive. Scrape out excess adhesive from the joints with a small tool before it hardens fully, leaving room for grout. Wipe the tile faces down with a damp sponge.
1 each · Grout removal tool
1 each · Sponge
AB-10Grout the tilesLeave the adhesive to cure fully, checking the packaging for the time, before you grout. Push grout into the joints diagonally with a rubber grout float, then wipe off the excess with a damp sponge before it dries hard. Polish the tiles with a dry cloth once the grout has set.
1 tub (2.5kg) · Tile grout
1 each · Grout float
1 each · Sponge
1 each · Dry cloth
AB-11Seal edges and tidy upRun a bead of silicone sealant, not grout, along any joint where the tiles meet a worktop, bath or another wall, since these areas move slightly and grout will crack there. Clean your tools and buckets before the adhesive and grout set hard in them. Dispose of tile offcuts and packaging, and remove the dust sheet.
1 tube · Silicone sealant
1 each · Sealant gun

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides