Level a TV that's hanging crooked on its bracket

Work out why your TV bracket is crooked, then adjust or re-fix it safely and level, whatever wall you have.

AB-01Clear the area and make it safeSwitch off and unplug the TV, then disconnect the power, aerial and HDMI leads. Get a second person to help — a mounted TV is heavier and more awkward than it looks, and dropping it can crack the screen or bend the bracket. Lay an old blanket or duvet on the floor nearby in case you need to rest the TV down.

1 each · Old blanket or duvet

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AB-02Work out why it's crookedMost crooked TVs come down to one of two things: an uneven tilt or arm mechanism, or a wall plate that was never fixed level in the first place. Hold a spirit level against the top edge of the TV, then against the wall plate itself, to see which one is actually out. If the plate reads level but the TV doesn't, the fault is in the bracket arm, not the wall.

1 each · Spirit level

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AB-03Adjust a crooked tilt or arm bracketIf the wall plate is level but the TV isn't, loosen the locking screws or knobs on the tilt or swing mechanism. Level the TV by eye and with the spirit level, then retighten both sides evenly, a little at a time, so it doesn't twist. Recheck the level once fully tightened, as brackets can shift slightly as you nip up the last turns. This fixes most crooked TVs without touching the wall at all.

1 each · Hex key set

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AB-04Take the TV off the bracket if the wall plate is the problemIf the wall plate itself is out of level, you'll need to remove the TV to get at it. With your helper, lift the TV off the arm using the release catch or lift-off mechanism — check your bracket's instructions if you're not sure how it releases. Rest the TV face-down on the blanket, or lean it against a wall with padding underneath.

AB-05Remove the wall plateUndo the screws holding the wall plate to the wall and lift it clear. Check the old holes — you may be able to reuse them if they're sound, or you may need to drill new ones slightly above or below to get the plate level. Keep the old screws to one side; you'll usually reuse them unless they look worn or rusted.

AB-06Work out what's behind the wallBefore drilling any new holes, find out what you're dealing with. On plasterboard, run a stud detector or a strong magnet across the wall — a magnet will catch on the screw heads that run in a line down each stud. Tap the wall: a dull, solid sound usually means masonry or a stud behind the board, a hollow drum sound means you're between studs. Drill a small pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot: fine pale dust means timber stud, gritty dust means brick or block, and bright metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

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AB-07Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the routes you'd expect. Use your detector, but treat the result as a guide, not a guarantee — it can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or outside the usual zones, and a metal stud frame can confuse cheaper detectors further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry it.

AB-08Choose the right fixing for your wall typeIn solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole to the depth of the wall plug, insert the plug and drive a 40mm masonry screw home. Into a timber stud, drive a 40mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud — no plug needed. Into a metal stud, use self-drilling metal-stud screws or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load — never a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Fixing into plasterboard between studs, not into a stud itself, needs a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the TV's weight, never a screw alone. Through dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing long enough to pass through the plaster dabs and bite into the solid masonry behind, typically 75-90mm — check the void depth first with a bradawl. On lath and plaster, screws can crumble the old lime plaster, so fix through to the timber laths or stud behind with a longer screw, and expect to patch the plaster afterwards.

4 each · Red wall plugs (6mm)

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4 each · Masonry screws 40mm

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4 each · Self-drilling metal stud screws

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4 each · Toggle or hollow-wall anchors (weight-rated)

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4 each · Long fixing screws 75mm

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AB-09Re-fix the wall plate levelHold the plate against the wall in its new position and check it with the spirit level before marking or drilling anything. Mark your fixing points with a pencil, then drill and fix using the method for your wall type from the step above. Recheck the level once the plate is screwed loosely in place, adjust if needed, then fully tighten every fixing.

1 each · Pencil

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AB-10Re-hang the TV and check the levelWith your helper, lift the TV back onto the arm or plate and lock it into place following your bracket's release mechanism. Reconnect the power, aerial and HDMI leads, then check the TV is level from a few steps back, straight-on and from the side. Give the frame a gentle nudge to confirm it's secure before letting go.

AB-11Tidy upVacuum up any dust from drilling, especially fine masonry or plasterboard dust, and wipe down the wall and screen. Dispose of any old wall plugs or screws you're not reusing. Stand back and check the TV looks level from normal seating distance, not just against the spirit level.

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