PAINTING & DECORATING

Mask up with decorator's tape for crisp lines

Use decorator's tape correctly to get sharp, clean paint lines along skirting, frames and switches.

MT-01Gather your kit and check the roomGet everything together before you start so you're not stopping halfway through a wall. Check the surface you're taping onto is sound — flaking paint or crumbly plaster won't hold tape properly and will pull off when you remove it. Have a filling knife or old credit card ready to press the tape down.
2 roll · Decorator's masking tape (low-tack, 24mm or 36mm)
1 each · Filling knife or plastic scraper
1 each · Lint-free cloth
MT-02Pick the right tape for the surfaceUse a proper decorator's tape, not ordinary masking tape from a DIY box of odds and ends — cheap tape lets paint bleed underneath and can tear wallpaper or fresh paint when you pull it off. Low-tack tape is safest on wallpaper, fresh emulsion, or delicate surfaces. Standard-tack tape is fine on skirting, gloss woodwork, glass and tiles.
MT-03Clean and dry the edge you're tapingWipe down skirting, frames, sockets and any other edge with a dry or barely damp cloth. Dust, grease or old cobwebs stop the tape sticking properly, and paint will creep underneath any gap. Let the surface dry fully before taping — tape won't grip damp paint or plaster.
MT-04Apply the tape along the lineUnroll short lengths of around 300–400mm at a time rather than one long strip — it's far easier to keep straight. Line the tape up exactly on the edge you want to protect, letting it slightly overlap onto the surface you're not painting. Work slowly around corners, sockets and door architraves rather than trying to wrap one length round a whole edge.
MT-05Seal the tape edge properlyRun the flat edge of a filling knife or an old credit card firmly along the inside edge of the tape, pressing it right down. This is the step most people skip, and it's the main reason paint bleeds under tape — a loose edge lets paint wick underneath by capillary action. Check corners and any dips in the surface again, as these are the easiest places to miss.
MT-06Paint up to the tapeCut in with a brush along the taped line first, using light pressure — don't drag a loaded brush hard against the tape edge, as this pushes paint underneath it. Apply a thin first coat rather than a thick one; a heavy, wet coat is much more likely to bleed. Let the first coat dry before adding a second if needed.
1 each · Paintbrush (25–50mm angled sash brush)
MT-07Remove the tape at the right momentPull the tape off while the paint is still slightly tacky, not once it's fully dry — this gives the cleanest line and stops the tape pulling dried paint off with it. Peel it back on itself at a shallow angle, slowly and steadily, rather than straight up. If in doubt, check the tape packaging for a recommended removal time.
MT-08Tidy up and check the linesRoll up the used tape and put it straight in the bin — it's not reusable. Once the paint has fully dried, check the lines under good light and touch up any small bleed spots with a fine artist's brush. Wipe down your filling knife and store leftover tape somewhere dry so it doesn't lose its stick.
1 each · Fine artist's brush (for touch-ups)

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