Paint a bathroom so it stands up to steam

Clean, treat mould, reseal the bath edge, then paint with moisture-resistant paint for a steam-proof finish.

AB-01Clear and protect the roomRemove bath mats, toiletries and anything on shelves or windowsills. Take down blinds or curtains if you can get to them easily. Lay a dust sheet over the floor and bath, and tape it down at the edges so it doesn't slip while you work.

1 each · Dust sheet

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2 roll · Masking tape

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AB-02Open up the ventilationOpen a window and switch on the extractor fan before you start, and keep both running the whole time you're painting and for several hours after. Good airflow helps the paint dry properly and clears fumes. If your extractor has a pull-cord isolator, that's all you need to touch — there's no reason to go near the wiring for this job.

AB-03Treat any mould before you paintSpray mould treatment onto any black spots on the ceiling, walls or grout lines and leave it for the time stated on the bottle. Wipe off with a damp cloth and let the area dry fully before painting over it. Wear gloves and keep the window open, as these treatments have strong fumes. Painting over live mould without treating it first just lets it grow back through the new paint.

1 bottle · Mould treatment spray

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1 pack · Nitrile gloves

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1 pack · Cleaning cloths

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AB-04Renew the sealant around the bath or showerCut out any old, cracked or mouldy silicone sealant around the bath, shower tray or basin using a sealant removal tool or a sharp knife. Clean the gap and let it dry fully. Run a new bead of bathroom mould-resistant silicone along the joint with a caulking gun, then smooth it with a wet finger. Leave it to cure fully — usually 24 hours — before it gets wet, since this joint is what actually keeps steam and water out of the wall behind.

1 each · Sealant removal tool

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1 tube · Bathroom mould-resistant silicone sealant

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1 each · Caulking gun

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AB-05Mask up fittings, tiles and edgesRun masking tape along the top of the skirting, around tile edges, window frames, and any switches or sockets. Press it down firmly so paint can't creep underneath. Leave switches and sockets covered rather than removing them — there's no need to touch the electrics for a repaint.

AB-06Prime bare patches and stainsIf you've got bare plaster, filled patches or old watermarks, brush on a stain-blocking primer and let it dry fully before the top coat — check the tin for the drying time. Skip this step if the walls are already painted and in good condition. This stops stains and damp patches bleeding through your new paint.

1 litre · Stain-blocking primer

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1 each · Paint brush, 50mm

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AB-07Cut in with a brushUse a small brush to paint a neat band around the ceiling edge, into corners, and around tiles, windows and fittings, using a specialist bathroom paint made for steam and moisture. Work in short sections so the cut-in edge stays wet and blends in with the roller work that follows.

1 2.5 litre tin · Specialist bathroom paint (satin, moisture-resistant)

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AB-08Roller the main surfacesPaint the ceiling first, then the walls, working top to bottom in overlapping strips. Load the roller evenly and don't go back over paint that's starting to go tacky, or you'll leave roller marks. Let the first coat dry fully — usually 2-4 hours for water-based bathroom paint, check the tin — with the window open and fan running.

1 set · Paint roller and tray set

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AB-09Apply a second coatOnce the first coat is completely dry, apply a second coat the same way — cut in first, then roller. Bathroom paint often needs two coats to build up proper steam and mould resistance, so don't skip this even if the first coat looks solid. Leave it to dry fully before removing any tape.

AB-10Remove tape and reinstate fittingsOnce the final coat is touch-dry, peel off the masking tape slowly at a 45° angle to get a crisp line. Re-hang mirrors and shelves, and put back the toilet roll holder, blinds or curtains.

AB-11Clean up and let the paint cureWash brushes and rollers straight away in water if you used water-based paint, or with the recommended cleaner if it's oil-based. Don't pour leftover paint down the drain — reseal the tin for touch-ups or take it to a household waste site. Keep the window open and avoid using the shower on full steam for 3-4 days, so the paint and sealant cure properly before they face real moisture.

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