Clean, sand, prime and paint bare or tired floorboards for a hard-wearing, hygienic finish in one session.
PF-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture out of the room, or right into the centre away from the boards you're working on. Take up rugs and curtains so no fumes get trapped in fabric. Tape dust sheets against the skirting boards and cover any fitted units, and open windows for ventilation before you start.
PF-02Check the boards and make repairsWalk the floor and look for loose, split or badly warped boards. Punch any protruding nail heads below the surface with a nail punch so they don't tear the sander or the paint film. Fill gaps, holes or old woodworm damage with a flexible wood filler and let it dry fully before you sand.
PF-03Sand the boardsIf boards are bare, badly varnished or previously waxed, sand along the grain with medium grit first, then fine grit, using a floor sander for large areas. If they're already painted and sound, a light going-over with a 120-180 grit sanding screen is enough to key the surface for the new paint. Wear a dust mask and eye protection throughout.
PF-04Vacuum and wipe downVacuum thoroughly, including the gaps between boards where dust collects. Wipe over with a cloth dampened with white spirit (for oil-based paint) or a sugar soap solution (for water-based paint) to lift the last of the dust and any grease. Let the floor dry completely before you open any paint.
PF-05Prime bare or unpainted woodIf the boards are bare or have never been painted, apply a wood primer or floor-specific undercoat before the topcoat. Cut in around the skirting with a small brush, then work the rest with a roller in the direction of the grain. Leave to dry fully as stated on the tin before moving on.
PF-06Apply the first coat of floor paintUse a proper floor paint, not standard wall or furniture paint, as it's formulated to take foot traffic. Cut in the edges with a brush, then roll the main area in the direction of the boards. Work in sections and keep a wet edge so you don't get visible overlap lines once dry.
PF-07Apply the second coatCheck the tin for drying time before recoating, usually 16 to 24 hours. If it recommends it, lightly key the surface with a fine sanding screen and vacuum again. Apply the second coat the same way as the first, working in the direction of the boards.
PF-08Apply a third coat if neededFloor paint often needs three coats for a properly hard-wearing finish, especially in light colours or busy areas like hallways. Check coverage and colour once the second coat is dry, and add a third coat if it still looks patchy or thin anywhere.
PF-09Leave to cure and deal with waste safelyFloor paint is usually dry to touch within a day but needs several days to fully cure before rugs go back down or furniture is dragged across it. Keep windows open until the smell has gone. Rags and cloths soaked in oil-based paint or white spirit can self-ignite as they dry, so soak them in water and seal in a metal tin, or spread them out to dry fully outdoors before binning.
PF-10Clean up and refit the roomClean brushes and rollers with water and washing-up liquid for water-based paint, or white spirit for oil-based paint. Remove the masking tape once the paint has fully cured, pulling it away slowly. Refit furniture gently to avoid scuffing the new finish, using furniture pads under legs if you have any heavy pieces.