Paint over wallpaper

Check, repair and seal your wallpaper properly, then paint it like a normal wall for a quick, fresh finish.

PW-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture away from the walls or into the middle of the room. Take down curtains, pictures and any loose fittings. Lay dust sheets over the floor and skirting, and use masking tape along skirting boards, window frames and light switches.

2 each · Dust sheet

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1 roll · Masking tape (low-tack)

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PW-02Check the wallpaper is actually paintableRun your hand over the walls looking for bubbles, lifting seams, or heavy embossed texture. Small areas of lifting can be fixed, but if large sections are loose, torn, or the paper is peeling badly, it needs stripping instead of painting over. Vinyl wallpaper generally takes paint well; thin lining paper or very old paste can fail once wet paint is applied.

PW-03Re-stick loose seams and edgesLift any loose edges gently and apply a small amount of wallpaper paste underneath with a fine brush. Press the paper back down firmly and smooth out air bubbles with a soft cloth or seam roller. Leave it to dry fully, usually a few hours, before doing anything else to that area.

1 tub · Wallpaper paste (ready-mixed)

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1 each · Seam roller

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PW-04Cut out and patch any bad damageFor torn or badly bubbled patches that won't stick back down, cut out the damaged section with a sharp blade along a straight edge, then fill the gap flush with ready-mixed filler. Sand smooth once dry so it doesn't show through the paint. Skip this step if your walls are in good condition.

1 tub · Ready-mixed filler

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1 each · Sanding block (fine grit)

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PW-05Wash down the wallsWipe the whole wall with warm water and a little sugar soap on a sponge to remove dust, grease and finger marks. Rinse with a clean, damp sponge afterwards. Let the walls dry completely, usually overnight, before you paint.

1 bottle · Sugar soap

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2 each · Sponge

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PW-06Seal the wallpaper before paintingApply a coat of wallpaper sealer or a stain-block primer over the whole wall. This stops ordinary paint softening the paste underneath, which causes bubbling and peeling later. It also stops dark patterns or ink bleeding through your paint colour. Let it dry fully according to the tin, usually 2-4 hours.

2.5 litre · Wallpaper sealer / stain-block primer

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1 each · Paintbrush (50mm)

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PW-07Cut in around edgesUsing a small brush, paint a neat band around the edges of the wall — where it meets the ceiling, skirting, coving and door frames. Work in short, controlled strokes and keep a wet edge so it blends with the roller work that follows.

1 each · Paintbrush (25mm)

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PW-08Roll the first coatLoad a roller evenly and apply paint in overlapping W-shapes across the wall, working in manageable sections. Finish each section with light, even strokes in one direction to avoid roller marks. Leave to dry fully before the second coat — check the tin for drying time.

2.5 litre · Matt emulsion paint

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1 set · Roller and tray set

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PW-09Apply the second coatOnce the first coat is completely dry, repeat the cutting-in and rolling process for an even, solid finish. Check in good light for any patches or thin spots and touch these up while the coat is still wet.

PW-10Clean up and remove tapePeel off masking tape carefully while the final coat is still slightly tacky, pulling away at a shallow angle to avoid lifting the paint. Wash brushes and rollers in warm water, fold and remove dust sheets, and put furniture back once the walls are fully dry, usually the next day.

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