Refit a radiator after decorating — HomeGraft

Take your radiator down for decorating, refit it to the right wall fixing, then reconnect, bleed and test it.

RAD-01Set up and protect the floorLay a dust sheet under the radiator's position and put a bucket underneath where the valves will sit, in case of drips. Get your tools together: radiator key, adjustable spanner, spirit level, drill, screwdriver and PTFE tape. Check the radiator's wheelhead valve and lockshield valve are still fully closed from when you took it down.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Bucket

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1 each · Adjustable spanner

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RAD-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector or a strong magnet across the wall where the brackets go. A regular line of magnet 'grabs' or beeps means plasterboard on studs, with screw heads under the surface marking the stud line. Tap the wall: solid brick or block sounds dull and firm everywhere, a stud wall sounds hollow between the studs. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at low speed — grey dust means brick or block, pale wood shavings mean a timber stud, and bright gritty metal swarf means a metal stud. Metal studs are normal in flats, new builds, and anything refitted since the 1990s.

1 each · Stud detector or strong magnet

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RAD-03Check for pipes and cables before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere behind a wall, not just in the 'safe zones'. Use a cable and pipe detector, but still assume something might be there — detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, anything behind metal-backed plasterboard, and they get confused by metal stud frames. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns before you start. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit and turn the water off at the stopcock before you drill.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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RAD-04Mark and drill the bracket fixing pointsHold the brackets against the wall, level, and mark the holes. In solid brick or block, drill 8mm holes 50mm deep and use wall plugs with 60-75mm screws. Into a timber stud, drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and use a 45-50mm wood screw. Into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the bracket's load — never a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. A metal stud alone will not hold a full radiator safely; if there's no timber noggin between the studs, fit one or fix through to the masonry behind. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a long fixing (75-100mm) that passes through the board, the adhesive dabs and the air gap behind, and into the solid masonry. For lath and plaster, find the timber lath or joist behind with a pilot hole and screw into that timber, not just the plaster.

4 each · Wall plugs (masonry)

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4 each · Wood screws 45mm

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4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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4 each · Long frame fixings (dot-and-dab)

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RAD-05Fit the wall brackets levelDrive the fixings home and check both brackets sit at the same height with a spirit level. Check the spacing between them matches the brackets on the back of the radiator. Give each bracket a firm push and pull to make sure it doesn't move in the wall before you load it.

RAD-06Lift the radiator onto the bracketsGet a second person to help if the radiator is large — an empty double panel is still heavy and awkward. Lift it onto the brackets so the mounting slots engage fully, then check it sits square and doesn't rock. Give it a gentle shake before letting go completely.

RAD-07Reconnect the valvesFit new fibre washers on the tap connectors and wrap the threads with PTFE tape. Hand-tighten each valve connection, then nip it up gently with a spanner — don't overtighten, as this can crack the fitting. Support the pipework as you tighten so you don't twist the connection.

2 each · Fibre washers

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1 roll · PTFE tape

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RAD-08Refill and bleed the radiatorOpen the lockshield valve and the wheelhead valve slowly and let the radiator fill. Hold a cloth against the bleed valve, open it with the radiator key until air stops hissing and water runs steadily, then close it. Top up the boiler pressure afterwards if your system needs it.

1 each · Radiator key

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1 each · Cloth

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RAD-09Check for leaks and test the heatingTurn the heating on and let the radiator warm up fully. Check every joint you touched, including under the valves, and feel for damp patches. If a joint weeps, tighten it a quarter turn at a time and recheck — don't force it.

RAD-10Tidy upWipe up any drips and dry the floor before removing the dust sheet. Vacuum up any masonry dust from drilling. Check the joints again after a few hours once the system has been through a full heating cycle.

1 each · Cloth

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