PAINTING & DECORATING

Remove old flaking paint

Strip flaking paint back to a sound surface, check for lead if your home is older, then prime bare patches ready to repaint.

RP-01Clear and protect the roomMove furniture away from the wall or ceiling, or into the middle of the room, and cover everything with dust sheets. Open a window for ventilation and, if you're working on a ceiling, wear a hat. Take down curtains, blinds and anything else that will catch dust or paint flakes.
2 each · Dust sheet
RP-02Check whether the paint could be lead-basedIf your home was built or last decorated before 1960, old paint layers underneath may contain lead. Use a home lead-test kit on a small scraped sample before you start — swab the paint and check for a colour change. If it tests positive, avoid dry sanding or heat guns, which release lead dust and fumes; use gentle wet scraping instead, wear an FFP3 mask, and bag scrapings separately for disposal.
1 each · Lead paint test kit
RP-03Gather tools and wear the right protectionYou'll need a scraper, a wire brush for stubborn patches, and sandpaper in a couple of grits. Wear safety goggles, disposable gloves, and an FFP3 mask even if the paint tests lead-free — old paint dust is still worth avoiding. Keep a bucket of warm water and sugar soap nearby for washing down afterwards.
1 each · Scraper (50mm)
1 each · Wire brush
1 pack · Sandpaper (120 and 180 grit)
2 each · FFP3 face mask
1 each · Safety goggles
1 pack · Disposable gloves
RP-04Adjust your technique for the surfaceOn solid brick or block walls under plaster, the surface is hard — you can scrape firmly without much risk of damage. On plasterboard (whether it's fixed to timber studs, metal studs, or stuck on with dot-and-dab), be gentler: dig too hard and the scraper will tear through the paper facing, not just the paint. With dot-and-dab plasterboard specifically, avoid heavy pressure — the board can flex against the air gap behind it and crack the skim coat. Lath and plaster ceilings and walls are the most fragile: work in small, light strokes, support the area with your other hand where you can reach, and expect old, badly cracked patches to come away down to the bare lath — that's normal, just fill it later rather than forcing more paint off.
RP-05Scrape and sand off the flaking paintHold the scraper at a shallow angle and work under the edges of loose paint, following the direction of the flaking rather than digging straight in. Use the wire brush on small stubborn patches, then switch to 120-grit sandpaper to knock back any remaining ridges. Stop once you reach paint that's firmly stuck — you only need to remove what's actually loose or flaking.
RP-06Feather the edges and clean the dustSand the edges between old sound paint and the bare patches with 180-grit paper so there's no visible step once you repaint. Wipe the whole area down with a damp sponge and sugar soap solution to lift dust and grease, then let it dry fully before you carry on.
1 bottle · Sugar soap
RP-07Fill and prime bare patchesFill any small dents or exposed plaster cracks left by the scraping, let it dry, then sand it flush. Apply a coat of primer or a mist coat over the bare patches so they don't show through the new paint and absorb it unevenly.
1 each · Filler (small tub)
1 litre · Primer/undercoat
RP-08Clear away and dispose of the debrisSweep or vacuum up all paint flakes and dust, including from skirting and floor edges. If you suspect lead paint, bag the scrapings separately, seal the bag, and check your local council's hazardous waste guidance for disposal rather than putting it in general rubbish. Wash tools before storing them.
2 each · Heavy-duty bin bags

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