Repair a broken fence post with a repair spur

Replace a snapped, rotten fence post using a metal spur, without digging out the whole fence run.

RF-01Check the post and check the rulesWobble the post to see if it snaps at ground level or has rotted below soil. If it's rotten below ground, a repair spur will fix it without lifting the whole fence line. Check your fence height before you start work.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

In England, fences over 2m high (or over 1m if next to a road used by vehicles) usually need planning permission. Check with your council before rebuilding any taller than this.

RF-02Gather your tools and materialsYou'll need a spade, a sledgehammer or post driving tool, a spirit level, a drill, a wrench for coach bolts, and gloves and goggles. Buy a metal repair spur sized to your post (usually 600-900mm), a length of treated timber post to match the old one, coach bolts, quick-set postcrete, and wood preservative for the cut end.

1 each · Metal fence repair spur (750mm)

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1 length · Treated timber fence post (75mm x 75mm)

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4 each · Coach bolts M10 x 100mm

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1 20kg bag · Quick-set postcrete

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1 500ml tin · Wood preservative (end-grain treatment)

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1 pair · Work gloves

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1 each · Safety goggles

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RF-03Check for buried cables and pipes before you digGarden cables, water pipes and even old drains can run close to fence lines, especially near a house or shed. Before you dig or drive the spur in, look for any obvious signs — cable routes to outbuildings, garden lighting, or an outside tap — and dig cautiously by hand for the first 300mm rather than forcing a spade straight down. If you hit anything solid or unexpected while digging, stop and check what it is before carrying on.

RF-04Remove the broken postUnscrew or lever off any fence panels and rails attached to the broken post so you have clear access. Dig around the base of the post to free it, then rock it out. If the base has snapped off and is still set in concrete, you may need to dig the old concrete footing out too, or leave it in place if you're fitting the spur alongside it.

RF-05Dig the hole for the spurDig a hole roughly 150mm across and about 450-600mm deep next to where the old post stood, or reuse the old hole if it's sound. Remove loose soil and old concrete rubble so the spur will sit on firm ground. Keep the hole vertical rather than tapered, so the concrete has something to grip.

RF-06Set the spur in the groundStand the spur in the hole and check it's vertical with a spirit level on two faces. Pour in the postcrete and add water following the bag's instructions — it sets hard in around 10-15 minutes, so have everything ready first. Recheck the spur is upright and square to the fence line before it goes off, and hold it steady while it sets.

RF-07Prepare the new post sectionMeasure and cut your new timber post to match the length of the old one, so the fence line stays level. Coat the freshly cut end with wood preservative and let it soak in for a few minutes — this is the end that will sit lowest, closest to damp ground.

RF-08Bolt the post into the spurSlot the new post into the spur's bracket. Drill pilot holes through the pre-made holes in the spur and into the timber, sized to match your coach bolts. Fit the coach bolts and tighten with a wrench, then check the post is vertical with a spirit level before the postcrete fully cures.

RF-09Reattach the fence panels and railsOnce the postcrete has fully cured — check the bag, but allow a few hours before putting any load on it — refit the fence panel or rails using panel clips or fresh screws. Check the whole run is level and the gate or panel swings or sits correctly.

4 each · Galvanised panel clips

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RF-10Backfill and tidy upFirm soil back around the base of the spur and post with your boot or a piece of timber, sloping it slightly away from the post to shed rainwater. Sweep up any concrete spill, and bag up broken timber and old concrete for disposal at your local recycling centre.

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