Swap old basin taps for new ones, working safely with the water off and connections leak-free.
RPT-01Prepare the work area and turn off the waterClear out from under the basin and lay an old towel down to catch drips. Turn off the water at the isolating valves under the basin if fitted, or at the main stopcock if not. Open the taps to run off any water left in the pipes and confirm the supply is off.
RPT-02Improve access if the basin is boxed in tightPillar taps sit close together, so a wall-hung or pedestal basin can be hard to reach underneath. If you can't get a spanner on the backnuts, unscrew the basin from its wall bracket or lift it off the pedestal and tilt it forward. Support it well on a folded towel so it can't fall while you work.
RPT-03Disconnect the old supply pipesUndo the tap connector nuts joining the supply pipes to the underside of each tap tail, using an adjustable spanner. Hold the pipe steady with a second spanner so it doesn't twist and strain the joint further along. Catch any water left in the pipe with the bowl.
RPT-04Remove the old tapsEach tap tail is held to the basin by a large backnut underneath. Undo it with a basin wrench, turning anticlockwise while you hold the tap steady from above with a cloth. Once the backnut is off, lift the tap and its old washer out through the top.
RPT-05Clean the tap holes and basin surfaceScrape off any old plumber's putty, silicone or limescale from around the tap holes using a plastic scraper, not metal, which can scratch the basin. Wipe the area clean and dry so the new washers seat properly.
RPT-06Fit the new tap tails and washersPush each new tap tail down through its basin hole from above, with the rubber or fibre washer that came with the tap sitting flat underneath. Check the tap is square to the basin and the washer hasn't folded over before you tighten anything.
RPT-07Secure the new tapsFrom underneath, fit the backnut over the tail and tighten by hand first, then finish snug with the basin wrench. Don't overtighten, as this can crack the basin, especially ceramic ones. Check the tap hasn't twisted out of square while you tighten.
RPT-08Connect the new supply pipesFit new flexible tap connectors between the isolating valves or supply pipe ends and the tap tails, wrapping the threads with PTFE tape first if needed. Tighten with an adjustable spanner until firm, not forced. Use the same compression or push-fit method you'd use for any other joint on the job.
RPT-09Turn the water back on and check for leaksTurn the isolating valves or stopcock back on slowly. Check every joint you touched, both under the basin and along the supply pipes, for drips. Press a piece of tissue against each joint to spot a mist of moisture, and nip up gently if you find a weep.
RPT-10Test the taps and tidy upRun the hot and cold taps for about a minute each to clear any air and debris from the new washers, checking the water runs clear. Dry the area under the basin, remove your towels, and dispose of the old taps and packaging responsibly.
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