SDS drill: how to hold it safely

Learn to hold and brace an SDS drill correctly before you ever switch it on.

SD-01Understand what makes an SDS drill differentSDS stands for the chuck system that lets the drill bit hammer forward and back as well as spin, which is what lets it bite into brick, block and concrete. This makes it heavier and far more powerful than an ordinary drill, and it can twist hard in your hand if you're not braced for it. Treat it with more respect than a normal drill from the start.

SD-02Fit the side handle before you switch onMost SDS drills have a side handle, a bar that screws into a ring near the chuck. Twist the ring anticlockwise to loosen it, slide the handle to a comfortable position, then twist clockwise to tighten it firmly. Never drill masonry without this fitted; it's your main defence against the drill spinning out of your grip.

SD-03Set your stance before you startStand with your feet roughly shoulder-width apart, one foot slightly back for balance, facing the wall square-on. Keep your weight evenly spread rather than leaning forward onto the drill. A stable stance matters more than grip strength if the drill suddenly grabs or stops.

SD-04Grip with both hands, one on each handlePut your trigger hand on the main body and your other hand on the side handle, wrapping your thumbs right round both handles rather than resting them on top. Keep your wrists straight, not bent, so the force runs through your arms and shoulders instead of your wrists. Beginners often use only one hand at first go, and that's the main way people get a twisted wrist.

SD-05Check what's behind the wall before you drillBefore the bit touches the wall, run a cable and pipe detector over the area. Always expect a cable or pipe to be there and try to prove otherwise, rather than assuming it's clear because the detector didn't beep. Detectors can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or simply not where you'd expect, especially in older or amateur wiring. If there's any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

SD-06Start slowly and let the hammer action workSqueeze the trigger gently to start a shallow pilot hole, keeping the drill roughly square to the wall. Don't lean your body weight into it; the hammer mechanism does the work, not your muscle. Pushing hard is the classic beginner mistake and it just wears out bits faster and tires your arms.

SD-07Know when your grip and technique are rightDone correctly, the drill should vibrate steadily in your hands without jumping or twisting, and the bit should sink in smoothly with a constant sound and steady stream of dust. If the drill jerks sideways or the handle wrenches your wrist, your stance or grip needs adjusting, not more force. A calm, controlled feel is the sign you've got it right, not speed.

SD-08If the drill jams or kicks, let go of the trigger straight awayIf the bit suddenly grabs, for example on hitting metal reinforcement, the whole drill can twist violently. Release the trigger immediately rather than fighting to hold it steady; this is exactly why both handles and a solid stance matter. Never try to muscle through a jam, ease the bit back out and reassess.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides