HEATING & RADIATORS

Take a radiator off the wall to decorate

Drain, unhook and remove your radiator safely, decorate the wall behind it, then refit everything without leaks.

RD-01Protect the area and gather your toolsLay dust sheets under and around the radiator and put old towels on the floor to catch drips. Get a shallow tray or bucket, an adjustable spanner or radiator spanner, a flathead screwdriver and a radiator bleed key ready before you start. Pull the radiator away from the wall slightly if the pipework allows, so you have room to work.
1 each · Dust sheet
1 each · Shallow tray or bucket
1 each · Adjustable spanner
1 each · Radiator bleed key
RD-02Turn off both radiator valvesEvery radiator has a thermostatic or manual valve at one end and a lockshield valve, under a small plastic cap, at the other. Turn the TRV or manual valve fully off, then take the lockshield cap off and turn its spindle clockwise with a spanner or screwdriver until it stops, counting the turns so you can put it back exactly. This isolates just this radiator, not the whole heating system.
RD-03Drain the water out of the radiatorPut your tray or bucket under the valve you'll disconnect and, if it has a drain point, connect a short hose to it. Loosen the nut on that valve slowly with a spanner and let the water run into the container, emptying and repositioning it as needed. Once the flow slows, open the bleed valve at the top with your bleed key to let air in and help the last of the water drain out.
1 each · Short drain hose
RD-04Disconnect the radiator and lift it off the wall bracketsOnce water has stopped draining, fully undo the union nut on the valve and lift the radiator straight up and off its wall brackets - most radiators simply hook off. Tilt it over your tray to let any last water out, then carry it to a towel-covered spot on the floor. Push a blanking plug or a wad of cloth into each open pipe stub to stop drips and keep dust out.
1 each · Radiator blanking plug kit
RD-05Take the wall brackets off, if decorating right behind themIf you want to paint or paper the full wall, unscrew the brackets now and keep the screws and any plugs together in a labelled bag. If you're happy decorating around fixed brackets, leave them in place and move on to decorating. Fill any old screw holes you won't reuse with a little filler and let it dry before painting over.
1 each · Small tub of filler
RD-06Decorate the wall behind the radiatorFill, sand and paint or paper the wall as normal, working right up to the pipe stubs. Check the tin or paste for drying times and let it dry fully before putting anything back against the wall. This is far easier with the radiator and brackets out of the way, so don't rush it.
1 pack · Fine sandpaper
1 as needed · Paint or wallpaper
RD-07Work out what the wall is made of before refitting the bracketsRun a stud detector, or a fridge magnet, along the fixing line: a magnet catches on screw heads under plasterboard, and a detector gives a different reading over a timber stud than over a metal one. Tap the wall - a dull thud usually means solid brick or block, while a hollow sound means stud partition or dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry. If it's a stud, drill a small pilot hole at the fixing spot: pale dust means timber, fine bright shavings mean steel. Lath and plaster feels slightly springy and sounds hollow, with an uneven, bumpy surface under the plaster.
1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector
RD-08Fix the brackets back to the wall - drill and cut safelyCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, so use a detector before drilling and still treat every hole as if something could be there. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns; if there's any doubt, isolate the electrics at the consumer unit and shut off the water before you drill. Into solid brick or block, drill an 8mm hole about 40mm deep and fit a matching wall plug with a 50mm screw. Into a timber stud, drive a 50mm wood screw straight into its centre, no plug needed; into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a rated toggle-type hollow-wall anchor, never a plain plug or wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Into plasterboard between studs, or through dot-and-dab into the masonry behind, use a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the radiator's weight, or for dot-and-dab a 60-75mm fixing long enough to reach the solid wall. On lath and plaster, fix into a joist or stud behind it if you can find one, or use a rated plasterboard toggle fixing, since the laths alone won't hold a radiator bracket.
1 pack · Wall plugs (pack)
1 pack · 50mm wood screws (pack)
1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings (pack)
1 pack · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (pack)
1 pack · Long fixings for dot-and-dab (75mm, pack)
RD-09Rehang the radiator and reconnect the valvesLift the radiator back onto its brackets, checking it sits level and hooks fully home on both sides. Remove the blanking plugs, wrap the valve tail threads with a couple of turns of PTFE tape, then reconnect and tighten the union nuts by hand before nipping them up gently with a spanner - don't overtighten, as this can crack the fitting. Turn the lockshield valve back to the position you noted earlier, then open the TRV or manual valve fully.
1 roll · PTFE tape
RD-10Bleed the radiator, check for leaks and tidy upWith the heating on, bleed the radiator using your key until water rather than air comes out steadily, then close it. Check both valve joints and the brackets for drips over the next hour, and again after 24 hours once the system has been through a full heating cycle. Wipe up any spilled water, tip drained water down a drain, and put your tools away.
1 each · Kitchen roll or cloth

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