WR-04Fix a support batten under the first rowFor a deep reveal or anything heavier than small tiles, screw a temporary timber batten level under the bottom tile line so nothing slides while the adhesive cures. Before drilling, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, and run a cable and pipe detector over the line - but still expect something could be there even if it reads clear, because detectors miss deep cables, metal conduit and anything behind metal-backed board. If there's any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water. Fixing: in solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 35mm deep and use a red wall plug with a 40mm woodscrew; into a timber stud, drive a 50mm woodscrew straight into its centre with no plug needed; into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a rated toggle anchor - never a plain wall plug or an ordinary woodscrew, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel; into plasterboard between studs, use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for at least 5kg; through dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough (typically 50-75mm) to pass through the board and adhesive dabs and bite into the masonry behind, as a short fixing will only grip the board and pull out; into lath and plaster, aim for a lath if you can find one, and test-fix in an inconspicuous spot first as the plaster is often soft and crumbly.