OUTDOOR & GARDEN

Treat or paint a fence

Clean, repair, and treat your fence with proper preparation for a long-lasting, weatherproof finish.

TF-01Check the weather and plan your dayPick a dry day with no rain forecast for at least 24 hours, ideally with the temperature above 10°C. Avoid painting in direct, hot sun as the treatment can dry too fast and go patchy. Check the tin for the minimum temperature it needs — most fence treatments won't cure properly below 5°C.
TF-02Clear the area and protect what you don't want paintedMove pots, furniture, and toys away from the fence. Cut back any plants or grass touching the panels so you can reach the whole surface. Lay dust sheets along the base and use masking tape on anything close by, such as trellis or a shed wall, that you want to keep paint-free.
2 each · Dust sheets
1 roll · Masking tape (low-tack, outdoor)
TF-03Clean the fence thoroughlyBrush off loose dirt, moss, and cobwebs with a stiff garden brush, working top to bottom. Rinse with a garden hose and scrub any green algae or grime with a sponge and mild detergent. Rinse again and leave to dry — a damp surface stops the treatment soaking in properly.
1 each · Stiff garden brush
1 bottle · Mild household detergent
1 each · Sponge or scrubbing brush
TF-04Let the fence dry completelyGive it at least a few hours in dry weather, longer if it's overcast or humid. Touch the wood — it should feel dry, not cool or damp. Painting over damp timber traps moisture and the finish will fail early.
TF-05Repair any damage before you paintCheck for loose boards, popped nails, or split panels and fix them now — treatment won't hold a fence together. Refix loose boards with galvanised or stainless screws, which won't rust outdoors. Fill small cracks or holes with exterior wood filler and let it cure fully before sanding.
1 pack · Galvanised outdoor screws (50mm)
1 tub · Exterior wood filler
TF-06Sand rough or flaking patchesLightly sand any splintered wood or flaking old paint with medium-grit sandpaper, just enough to smooth the surface — you're not stripping it back to bare wood. Wipe away the dust with a dry cloth before you start painting, as dust left on the surface will show through the finish.
1 pack · Sandpaper (medium grit, 120)
1 each · Dry cloth
TF-07Stir and apply the first coatStir the fence paint or treatment well before you start — the pigment settles at the bottom of the tin. Use a brush to cut in around edges, posts, and gaps, then a roller or wide brush for the flat panels, working in the direction of the wood grain. Wear gloves, as most treatments stain skin.
1 tin · Fence paint or treatment (5L)
1 each · Paintbrush (100mm)
1 set · Fence roller with tray
1 pack · Disposable gloves
1 each · Stirring stick
TF-08Let it dry, then apply a second coatCheck the tin for drying and recoat times — most need 2 to 4 hours between coats, but this can be longer in cool or damp weather. Apply the second coat the same way, checking for any missed patches or drips from the first coat as you go.
TF-09Clean tools and tidy upWash water-based brushes and rollers in soapy water; use white spirit for oil-based products, following the tin's instructions. Let brushes dry flat before storing. Reseal the tin tightly and take any leftover solvent-based product to your local household waste recycling centre rather than pouring it away.
1 bottle · White spirit (for oil-based products)

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides