Sand, prime and paint a tired chest of drawers for a fresh new look, all in a weekend.
UP-01Clear your space and protect the floorWork in a room with good airflow, or a garage with the door open, so paint fumes can escape. Lay a dust sheet or old bedsheet over the floor and any nearby furniture. Move the chest of drawers onto the sheet before you start.
UP-02Remove drawers, handles and hardwareTake all drawers out and set them aside in order so you know which goes where later. Unscrew handles, knobs and any other hardware. Keep screws in a small bag or pot so you don't lose them.
UP-03Clean and degrease every surfaceWipe the whole piece down with sugar soap and warm water to lift grease, wax and old polish. This matters most on kitchen or hallway pieces, where hand grease builds up around handles. Rinse with a clean damp cloth and let it dry fully before sanding.
UP-04Sand the whole pieceGive every surface a light sand to knock back any shine and help the primer grip. Use 120-grit first if the old finish is glossy, then 180-grit to smooth it off. Sand in the direction of the wood grain and wipe away dust with a tack cloth.
UP-05Fill any dents, holes or gapsFill old handle holes, dents or gouges with wood filler using a flexible filler knife. Leave it to dry fully, following the time on the tub, then sand it flush with 180-grit paper. Wipe off the dust before moving on.
UP-06Mask off any areas you're not paintingUse masking tape along edges you want to keep bare, such as a natural wood top or the inside of drawer runners. Press the tape down firmly so paint can't creep underneath.
UP-07Apply a coat of primerPrimer is worth it on bare wood, veneer, laminate, or if you're covering a dark colour with a light one. Use a multi-surface or furniture primer and apply it thinly with a brush or foam roller, following the grain. Let it dry fully before the next step, usually a few hours.
UP-08Apply the first coat of paintUse a furniture or eggshell paint for a hard-wearing finish that copes with daily use. Load the brush lightly and work in long, even strokes with the grain. Don't overwork the paint once it starts to go tacky, or you'll drag the finish.
UP-09Sand lightly between coatsOnce the first coat is fully dry, give it a very light sand with 240-grit paper to knock off any bumps or brush hairs. Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth before the next coat. Skipping this step is the main reason painted furniture looks rough close up.
UP-10Apply a second and, if needed, third coatRepeat the painting step for full, even coverage. Two coats is usually enough over primer; a third helps on corners or edges that get more wear, like drawer fronts. Let the final coat cure for the time stated on the tin before using the piece normally, often 24 hours or more.
UP-11Protect the finish with wax or varnishA coat of clear furniture wax or water-based varnish protects the paint from scuffs and makes it easier to wipe clean. Apply with a lint-free cloth in thin, even layers and buff once dry. This step matters most on surfaces that get knocked or wiped often, like drawer tops.
1 tin · Clear furniture wax or water-based varnish
UP-12Reattach handles and reassembleScrew the original handles back on, or fit new ones if you're upgrading the look. Slide the drawers back into their original positions. Check they run smoothly and adjust anything that's sticking before you call it finished.
UP-13Clean up and dispose of waste properlyWash brushes and rollers straight away in warm water for water-based paint, or the correct solvent for oil-based paint. Let leftover paint tins dry out fully, or take them to a household waste recycling centre rather than putting liquid paint in the bin. Fold and bin the dust sheet or shake it out for reuse.
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