WR-05Check the brackets, and refix if loose — fixing depends on the wallWiggle each bracket. If either is loose, it needs refixing before the radiator goes back up, and the right fixing depends on what's behind the plaster. Before drilling anywhere, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, and use a cable/pipe detector — then still treat the wall as if something is there, since detectors miss cables in metal conduit or outside the usual safe zones. If in any real doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first. On solid brick or block, drill 6-8mm and fit a wall plug with a matching screw. On plasterboard over timber studs, find the stud with a magnet or detector (tap for the solid sound, and a pilot hole will bring out timber dust) and drive a wood screw into its centre. On plasterboard over metal studs (common in flats and newer builds — a pilot hole brings out fine steel swarf, not dust) never use a wood screw or plain wall plug, as they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing instead, and if the bracket takes real pulling force, fix through to the timber noggin or the masonry behind. On dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to pass through the dabs and bite into the solid masonry behind — a standard plug in the plasterboard alone will pull straight out. On lath and plaster, drill carefully to avoid cracking the old plaster, and fix into the timber lath or the stud behind it, not just the skim.