Workbench and clamps: setting it up and changing the bit or blade

Learn to set up a workbench, clamp your work safely, and change a drill bit without hurting yourself.

WC-01Unfold and lock the workbenchA workbench (like a folding Workmate-style bench) has two frames that scissor open. Pull the legs apart until they click or lock into place, then push down on the top to make sure it's stable on the floor. It should not wobble or rock when you lean on one corner - if it does, you haven't opened it fully or you're on an uneven floor.

WC-02Understand the jaws and how they clampMost workbenches have a split top that acts as a vice - turning the handles underneath opens or closes the two halves of the top. Place your workpiece (the thing you're cutting or drilling) between the jaws, then wind the handle to bring them together onto the wood. Beginners often only turn one handle, which pulls the jaws in unevenly - turn both sides a little at a time, alternating, so the jaws stay level.

WC-03Check the clamping is tight enoughGrip the workpiece with your hand and try to twist or slide it. It should not move at all - if it shifts even slightly, tighten further. A loose workpiece is the most common cause of a drill bit skating sideways or a saw jumping, so don't rush this step even though it feels fiddly.

WC-04Use a separate clamp for extra security or odd shapesFor anything that doesn't sit neatly in the bench jaws - a curved piece, or something you're working on near the edge - use a G-clamp or a quick-action clamp. Put a scrap piece of wood between the clamp and your workpiece so the metal doesn't dent or mark it. Tighten until firm, but stop as soon as you feel resistance; over-tightening can crush softwood.

WC-05Isolate the drill before touching the bitBefore you change a bit, unplug a corded drill or take the battery out of a cordless one. Never rely on the trigger lock or assume it's off - hands near a spinning chuck (the part that grips the bit) are how fingers get badly cut. This takes two seconds and is not optional.

WC-06Remove the old bitMost modern drills have a keyless chuck: grip the ribbed collar with one hand and hold the body of the drill still with the other, then twist to open the jaws inside. Older drills use a small metal key that fits into holes on the chuck - turn it anticlockwise to loosen. The bit should drop out freely once the jaws are fully open; if it's stuck, open the chuck a little further rather than pulling harder.

WC-07Fit the new bit and tighten fullyPush the new bit straight into the chuck as far as it will go, keeping it centred, then twist the collar the other way to close the jaws. Tighten firmly by hand - on a keyless chuck you'll feel it click or stop turning easily. A loose bit will wobble visibly when the drill runs, so if you see any wobble, stop and re-tighten before continuing.

WC-08Test it's right before you start workWith the bit fitted and the drill pointed safely away from you, pull the trigger for a second and watch the tip. It should spin perfectly straight, with no visible flex or side-to-side movement. If it wobbles, the bit isn't seated properly or the chuck isn't tight - switch off, isolate the drill again, and re-fit it before you drill anything.

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