Adjust a bi-fold door that's out of line

Diagnose why a bi-fold door hangs crooked, then adjust its pivots, hinges and track fixings so it closes flush.

BF-01Work out what's actually wrongOpen and close the doors slowly and watch where they catch or leave an uneven gap. Common problems are a corner dragging on the floor, a gap that's wider at top than bottom, doors not sitting flush when closed, or the whole set sagging away from the frame. This tells you whether you need to adjust the pivots, the hinges, or the track fixings.

1 each · Torch

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BF-02Gather your tools and protect the floorYou'll need flat and pozidriv screwdrivers, an Allen key set, and a small spirit level to check the doors are hanging plumb. Lay a towel or dust sheet under the doors to catch any dropped screws or debris.

1 each · Screwdriver set

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1 each · Allen key set

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1 each · Spirit level (small)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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BF-03Fold the doors back and support themOpen the doors fully so the panels are folded flat against the wall or reveal. If a panel feels heavy or unstable while you work on it, get someone to hold it steady - bi-fold panels are awkward to manage alone.

BF-04Adjust the top pivot bracketMost bi-fold sets have an adjustable pivot at the top corner of the leading door, usually a small screw turned with a screwdriver or Allen key. Turning it one way raises that corner, the other way lowers it - check any instructions you still have, as the direction varies between makes. Make small quarter-turns and recheck the gap each time before adjusting further.

BF-05Adjust the bottom guide or pivotThe bottom of the door usually runs in a guide channel or pivot socket set into the floor. Loosen its fixing screw slightly, slide the pivot to correct the lean, then retighten. Check the door swings freely without dragging on the carpet or floor covering.

BF-06Adjust the hinges between panelsIf two panels don't sit flush with each other, loosen the hinge screws slightly, realign the panels so the gap is even (aim for about 2-3mm), then retighten fully. Do one hinge at a time and close the doors to check before moving to the next.

BF-07Check the track fixings if the door still sagsIf the pivots and hinges are adjusted correctly but the door still hangs crooked, the screws holding the track to the head or lining above have often worked loose or pulled out. Look along the track for gaps between it and the frame, or screws sitting proud rather than flush.

BF-08Work out what's behind the track - timber, metal or masonryRun a magnet or stud detector along the wall or ceiling above the track; a line of screw heads under the lining usually marks a timber or metal stud. Tap along the surface - a dull, hollow sound is the gap between studs, a solid knock is a stud itself. If you drill a small pilot hole, fine timber dust means a wood stud, and fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud.

1 each · Stud detector

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BF-09Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, so use a detector, then still treat the area as if something is there until you've drilled carefully and proved otherwise. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, so you can cut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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BF-10Fit the right fixing for your wall or ceiling typeSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole to about 40mm deep, insert a plastic wall plug, then use a 40mm woodscrew. Plasterboard on timber studs: use a woodscrew straight into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a woodscrew or plastic plug - a plain screw strips straight through 0.5mm steel - use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the load. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a long fixing, typically 60-75mm, that passes through the board and dab adhesive to bite into the masonry behind; lath and plaster: screws crack the laths, so use a hollow-wall toggle fixing, or find and screw into the joist or stud behind if you can.

1 pack · Rawlplugs (assorted)

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1 pack · Woodscrews 40mm

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4 each · Self-drilling metal stud fixings

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4 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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BF-11Test the doors fullyClose and open the bi-fold several times, checking the gaps are even top to bottom and the doors close flush without catching. Watch any fixings you've just adjusted or refitted for movement, and re-tighten anything that shifts.

BF-12Fine-tune, lubricate and tidy upOnce the alignment is right, apply a light spray of silicone-based lubricant to the track and pivot points - avoid oil-based products, which attract dust and grit. Vacuum any debris from the track channel and floor, and dispose of any old screws or packaging.

1 each · Silicone-based lubricant spray

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