Build a raised bed from sleepers

Build a simple timber-sleeper raised bed, from marking out to filling with soil, in one weekend session.

RB-01Plan and mark out the bedDecide on the size and pick a spot that gets good sun. Mark the corners with pegs and run string between them to check the shape is square. Measure diagonals corner to corner - if they match, it's square.

4 each · Timber pegs

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20 m · Builder's string/line

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1 each · Tape measure

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RB-02Check for buried pipes and cables before diggingBefore you dig, think about what might run under that spot - a garden tap supply, drainage pipes, or a cable to a shed or outbuilding. If you're not sure, dig a shallow test trench by hand with a spade rather than a fork or mattock, and stop the moment you feel or see anything unusual. There's no Building Regulations issue with a garden raised bed, but hitting a buried pipe or cable is a real risk on older plots.

RB-03Clear and roughly level the groundStrip off turf and weeds within your marked area using a spade. Rake the ground roughly level, removing large stones and roots. It doesn't need to be perfect yet - the first course of sleepers will do the fine levelling.

1 each · Spade

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1 each · Garden rake

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RB-04Cut the sleepers to lengthMeasure and mark each sleeper, then cut with a hand saw or circular saw. Wear safety glasses and gloves, especially with tanalised (treated) timber - brush off any sawdust rather than blowing it. Cut all pieces for one course before moving to the next.

6 each · Softwood railway-style sleepers (2.4m)

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1 each · Safety glasses

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1 pair · Work gloves

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RB-05Lay and level the first coursePlace the first layer of sleepers on the cleared ground to form the rectangle. Check each sleeper with a spirit level along its length and across the corners. Pack sharp sand or hardcore underneath any low spots until the whole course sits level and stable.

25 kg bag · Sharp sand

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RB-06Fix the corners of the first courseDrill a pilot hole through the end of one sleeper into the end grain of the next, then drive in a timber screw to join them. Repeat at all four corners so the first course can't shift once you build on top of it.

8 each · Timber-lock screws (150mm)

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1 each · Cordless drill/driver

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RB-07Lay the second course, staggering the jointsPosition the second layer so its corner joints sit at the opposite end from the first course - this locks the frame together like brickwork. Screw down through the second course into the first at each corner, and add extra screws along the length every 400-500mm for a longer bed.

12 each · Timber-lock screws (150mm)

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RB-08Anchor the bed into the groundDrive a timber stake or a length of 16mm rebar into the ground at each corner and at the midpoint of long sides, tight against the inside or outside face of the sleepers. This stops the bed bowing outwards once it's full of wet soil. Knock stakes down flush with or just below the top of the first course.

6 each · Timber stakes or 16mm rebar (600mm)

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1 each · Club hammer

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RB-09Line the inside of the bedStaple or tack a weed-suppressant membrane or offcut of pond liner to the inside faces of the sleepers, leaving the base open to the soil below for drainage. This protects the timber from constant wet contact and slows rot, and stops soil escaping through any gaps.

4 m · Weed-suppressant membrane

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1 each · Staple gun and staples

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RB-10Fill with soil and compostFill the bed with a mix of good quality topsoil and compost, roughly two parts soil to one part compost. Firm it down lightly as you go and leave the surface slightly below the top edge so watering doesn't wash soil out.

250 litres · Topsoil

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125 litres · Multi-purpose compost

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RB-11Tidy upSweep up sawdust and offcuts, and put spare screws and stakes away for next time. Check all corner joints are tight and re-drive any stakes that worked loose while filling. Give the bed a final level check before you plant anything.

1 each · Garden waste bag

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