WINDOWS & BLINDS

Cut a curtain pole to length

Measure, cut and deburr a curtain pole, then fit the brackets correctly for your wall type.

CP-01Measure the window and mark bracket positionsMeasure the width of the window recess or architrave. For a pole that lets curtains draw back fully, brackets usually sit 150-200mm beyond each side of the frame and 100-150mm above it, so the pole clears the top of the glass. Mark each bracket centre with a pencil, then use a spirit level to check both marks are level with each other.
1 each · Tape measure (5m)
1 each · Pencil
1 each · Spirit level (600mm)
CP-02Mark the pole to lengthMeasure the gap between the outer edges of the brackets and add roughly 50-70mm each end for finials or pole overhang, depending on the style. Mark the cut line all the way round the pole with a pencil. Wrap a strip of masking tape around the line to give a crisp edge and stop the surface splintering as you cut.
1 roll · Masking tape
CP-03Cut the poleSupport the pole so the cut end is not resting on the floor and can't sag as you saw through it. Use a hacksaw for metal poles or a fine-tooth hand saw for wood, and a mitre box if you have one to keep the cut square. Cut just outside the pencil line, then trim back to the line if needed.
1 each · Hacksaw or fine-tooth hand saw
1 each · Mitre box
CP-04Deburr and finish the cut endFile any sharp metal edges smooth, or sand a wood pole end so it doesn't splinter. If the pole is stained, varnished or painted, dab a matching finish on the cut end so it doesn't stand out or absorb moisture.
1 each · Fine metal file or sandpaper (120 grit)
1 small tin · Matching touch-up paint or varnish
CP-05Work out what's behind the wall, and check for cables and pipesAt each bracket mark, run a stud detector or a small magnet slowly across the wall. A magnet that grabs onto something in a line suggests screw heads along a timber or metal stud. A dull, solid sound when you tap means masonry or a dot-and-dab dab; a hollow sound between two firmer points means you're between studs. If you're still unsure, drill a small 2-3mm pilot hole at the exact bracket centre: fine pale dust means plasterboard or plaster, coarse wood dust means timber, and shiny metal filings mean a metal stud. Cables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall or ceiling, not just in the 'safe zones', and cheap detectors can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or hidden by a metal stud frame or metal-backed plasterboard. Use a detector, but still assume something could be there until you've proved otherwise. Before you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
1 each · Stud detector (cable/pipe/stud sensing)
1 each · Small magnet
1 each · 2-3mm drill bit
CP-06Fix the brackets: solid brick or blockDrill with a 6mm masonry bit to a depth of about 45mm, then push in a matching 6mm wall plug flush with the surface. Drive in a 40-50mm woodscrew through the bracket into the plug. Two fixings per bracket give a secure hold for a standard curtain pole.
1 each · Masonry drill bit (6mm)
6 each · Wall plugs (6mm, red/brown)
6 each · Woodscrews (40-50mm)
CP-07Fix the brackets: plasterboard on timber studsOnce you've confirmed a timber stud with the pilot hole test, drill a 2-3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive a 40-50mm woodscrew straight through the bracket into it. Never fix into the edge of a stud, as it can split and pull loose over time.
6 each · Woodscrews (40-50mm)
CP-08Fix the brackets: plasterboard on metal studsIf the bracket lines up with a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw, which cuts its own thread into the steel; never use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, as both strip straight through 0.5mm steel. If the bracket falls between studs, use a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for at least the combined weight of the pole and curtains, since a light plasterboard-only fixing can pull out under the weight of heavy curtains being drawn. A metal stud on its own will not hold anything that pulls hard on the wall repeatedly; if you're hanging heavy curtains from a long pole, it's worth fixing into a stud at every bracket rather than relying on plasterboard alone.
6 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws
4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings (rated 15kg+)
CP-09Fix the brackets: dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard sits on a bed of adhesive dabs with a gap behind it, so a standard wall plug has nothing solid to grip. Drill through the board and check the depth to the masonry behind with a bradawl or by feel; the total depth is often 40-70mm. Use a long fixing, at least 65-75mm, that passes through the void and anchors into the masonry itself, following the fixing manufacturer's stated drill size and depth.
6 each · Long fixings for dot-and-dab walls (65-75mm)
1 each · Masonry drill bit matching fixing size
CP-10Fix the brackets: lath and plasterOld lath and plaster is brittle and can crack if you drill or screw into it directly. Use the pilot hole test to find a timber lath or the stud or joist behind it, then fix a 40-50mm woodscrew into solid timber, not just into the plaster skim. Drill slowly and don't overtighten, as plaster can crack around the fixing even when the screw itself is sound.
6 each · Woodscrews (40-50mm)
CP-11Fit the pole, rings and finials, and check it's levelThread on any curtain rings before lifting the pole into the brackets. Rest the pole in the bracket cups, secure any locking clips or screws underneath, then fit the finials on each end. Check the pole is level with a spirit level and adjust a bracket if needed before it's fully tightened.
12 each · Curtain rings
1 pair · Finials (pair)
CP-12Tidy upVacuum up sawdust, plaster dust or metal swarf from the floor and windowsill. Wipe down the wall around the brackets and check nothing is loose. Put any off-cuts and packaging in the bin.
1 each · Vacuum cleaner or dustpan and brush

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides