Fit a child-safe cord cleat to a blind

Fit a cord cleat at a safe height so blind cords cannot loop around a child's neck.

CC-01Plan the cleat's height and positionFit the cleat at least 1500mm from the floor, well above the reach of small children, and to the side of the blind rather than directly under it. UK safety guidance (BS EN 13120, the standard for corded blinds) recommends this height so the cord can be wound out of reach when not in use. Mark the spot lightly with a pencil.

RULES

1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Tape measure

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KNOW THE RULES

Corded blinds sold in the UK must meet BS EN 13120, which covers child safety devices like cord cleats. Fitting the cleat at 1500mm+ follows this safety standard.

CC-02Gather your tools and the cleat kitMost child-safe cord cleats come with their own screws, but these are often too short for anything but timber. Get a stud detector or a small fridge magnet, a spirit level, a drill with a pilot bit, a screwdriver, and a dust sheet for the floor below.

1 each · Child-safe cord cleat kit

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1 each · Stud detector or magnet

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1 each · Dust sheet

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CC-03Check for cables and pipes before drillingRun a cable and pipe detector over the marked spot, but don't trust it completely — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt, turn off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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CC-04Work out what's behind the wallNear a window you're often on solid masonry or a stud wall depending on the house. Run the magnet or detector across the area — a hit every 400-600mm in a line usually means screw heads on a timber or metal stud. Tap the wall: a dull thud is solid masonry or dot-and-dab, a hollow sound is a stud wall or lath and plaster.

CC-05Drill a test pilot hole to confirm the wall typeDrill a small 3mm pilot hole at the marked spot. Pale dust and a solid, gritty feel means brick or block. Timber dust curling out means a stud or a lath. Fine grey swarf means you've hit a metal stud — stop and move your fixing point slightly to land in the plasterboard between studs instead, or plan a proper metal-stud fixing.

1 each · 3mm drill bit

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CC-06Fix into solid brick or blockDrill a 6mm hole to 35mm deep, insert a red wall plug, and drive in the screw from the cleat kit. This gives a secure fixing that will easily take the light pull of a cord.

2 each · 6mm wall plugs

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1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

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CC-07Fix into plasterboard on timber studsIf your pilot hole hit timber, drive the cleat's screw straight into the centre of the stud. No plug is needed — a wood screw into solid timber holds a cord cleat easily.

1 each · Wood screw (from cleat kit)

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CC-08Fix into plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain wall plug or ordinary wood screw here — it will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. If you land on the metal stud itself, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw. If you land in the plasterboard between studs, use a small self-drilling hollow-wall anchor rated for plasterboard — a cord cleat is light enough that this is fine without a noggin.

2 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screw or plasterboard anchor

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CC-09Fix into dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab plasterboard is stuck to the masonry with adhesive blobs, leaving an air gap of 20-40mm behind the board. Use a long fixing designed for dot-and-dab, sized to pass through the 12.5mm plasterboard, the air gap, and still bite at least 25mm into the masonry behind. Drill slowly and steadily so the drill doesn't suddenly plunge through the gap.

2 each · Dot-and-dab fixing (e.g. 60-75mm long plug)

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CC-10Fix into lath and plasterLath and plaster walls have thin timber strips (laths) nailed across studs, with gaps between them. Screwing into plaster alone will crack it, so find the stud or joist behind using your detector and fix into that with a wood screw. If you can only land on a lath, use a fine pilot hole and a short screw so you don't split the wood.

1 each · Wood screw (from cleat kit)

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CC-11Screw on the cleat and check it's levelHold the cleat against the wall, check it's level with a spirit level, and mark the second screw hole through the fixing plate. Drill and fix the second point the same way as the first, then tighten both screws fully.

1 each · Spirit level

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CC-12Wind on the cord and test itWind the blind cord in a figure-of-eight around the cleat so it stays clear of the floor and out of reach. Tug the cleat firmly to check it's solid, then vacuum up any dust and fold away your dust sheet.

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