Measure, cut and clip a new plinth onto your kitchen unit legs, then fit corner posts and end caps for a neat finish.
KP-01Clear the area and check the old plinthRemove anything stored under the units and pull out any integrated bins or kick-space drawers. Take a photo of the old plinth before you start, noting its height and how it's fixed. This helps you match the new one and spot any surprises like extractor ducting or pipework behind it.
KP-02Remove the old plinthMost plinths clip onto small plastic brackets fitted to the unit legs. Look underneath for a clip release or a couple of screws, then unclip or unscrew and pull the board forward and down. Keep the clips if they're in good condition — you can often reuse them.
KP-03Measure up and buy matching plinthMeasure the total length of each run of units and the height from floor to the underside of the doors. Buy plinth board to match, plus corner posts for external corners and end caps for any exposed ends. Boards usually come in 2-4m lengths, so plan cuts to avoid waste.
2 each · Plinth board (matching colour, per 2.4m length)
KP-04Cut the plinth board to lengthMark your cut line clearly and cut with a fine-tooth panel saw or jigsaw for a clean edge. Cut square, slightly long rather than short, and offer the board up before trimming to a snug fit. Lightly sand the cut edge to remove rough splinters.
KP-05Cut notches for pipes or ventsCheck the run for anything that needs to pass through the plinth line, such as a washing machine waste pipe, a water supply pipe, or a boiler flue vent. Mark its position on the board and cut a notch or hole with the jigsaw, then test fit before final fixing. You can see these pipes directly, so there's no hidden-service risk here — just cut carefully and slightly oversize.
KP-06Fit plinth clips to the unit legsMost flat-pack kitchens use small plastic clips that screw onto the adjustable feet of the units. Space clips roughly every 400-500mm along the run, including one near each end. Use the short self-tapping screws supplied with the clips — these go into the plastic or metal leg, not into a wall.
KP-07Clip the plinth board into placeOffer the board up to the clips and push firmly until it snaps home along its length. Check it sits flush and level by eye, and run a hand along the top edge to feel for any gaps. If there's an uneven gap at floor level, adjust the unit's screw feet up or down slightly to level it.
KP-08Fit corner posts and end capsAt any external corner, slide the corner post over both plinth ends so it covers the joint neatly. On exposed ends, push an end cap into place — a dab of contact adhesive inside the cap will stop it working loose over time.
KP-09Seal any gaps and check the finishIf there's a small gap between the top of the plinth and the floor or between the plinth and an end panel, run a thin bead of matching silicone sealant along it. Smooth with a wet finger and leave to cure for the time stated on the tube before mopping the floor.
KP-10Tidy upVacuum up sawdust and offcuts from under the units and the floor. Refit any kick-space drawers or integrated bins you removed earlier, and put the old plinth aside for disposal or reuse elsewhere.
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