Fit a picture hanging rail system to a metal stud wall — HomeGraft

Fit a picture rail system level and secure, using the right fixing for your wall type, from planning to tidy-up.

AB-01Plan the rail height and layoutDecide where the rail will sit — 2000mm from the floor is standard for most rooms, but check against your ceiling height and door frames. Measure the wall length and mark a level line in pencil using a spirit level. Work out hook spacing from the rail packaging (usually every 400–600mm) and buy 10% extra rail length to allow for cuts and joins.

1 each · Tape measure

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Pencil

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall to find the vertical studs — a magnet will catch on the line of screw heads holding the plasterboard on. Knock along the wall: a change from hollow to a duller, more solid sound marks a stud centre. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot; fine grey steel swarf means metal studs, pale wood dust means timber. Flats and anything built or refitted since the 1990s often use metal studs, so don't assume timber just because the last house you worked on had it.

1 each · Stud detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Small magnet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · 3mm drill bit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the obvious safe zones — and a metal stud frame will confuse a cheap detector further. Sweep the whole line with your detector, then still treat every hole as if something could be there. Before you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

AB-04Mark the bracket positionsHold the rail against your level line and mark each bracket position through the fixing holes, or measure out the spacing given in the instructions. Recheck with the spirit level as you go — a rail that's a few mm out over 3m will show. Mark exactly where each fixing point lands on a stud, and note any point that falls in the plasterboard between studs, as that needs a different fixing.

1 each · Pencil

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-05Fix brackets into metal studsFor a fixing point that lands on a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for metal studs — never a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Drill a pilot hole sized to the fixing you're using, then drive the screw in straight and level; it should feel solid, not spinning loosely. A picture rail carrying only light framed pictures is fine on stud fixings alone, but for anything heavy or a long unsupported run, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind for real support.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack of 20)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Metal-stud toggle fixings (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Cordless drill

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-06Fix into any other wall types on the same runIf the rail run crosses onto a different wall type, change the fixing to match. Solid brick or block: drill 6mm with a masonry bit to 40mm depth, insert a plug and drive a screw home. Plasterboard on timber studs: pilot hole, wood screw into the centre of the stud. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough (60–75mm) to pass through the plaster and adhesive dabs into the blockwork behind, with a plug rated for the cavity gap. Lath and plaster: locate a timber lath with your detector and screw into it, or use a spring toggle made for laths — old plaster crumbles easily, so drill slowly and support it from behind if you can.

1 pack · Masonry wall plugs (pack of 20)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Long dot-and-dab fixings (pack of 10)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-07Fit the brackets and clip in the railScrew each bracket to the wall using the fixing you chose for that point, tightening evenly so none sit proud. Slide or clip the rail track into the brackets as directed by the manufacturer. If your wall length needs more than one length of rail, join the sections with the supplied connector and check the joint sits flush.

3 each · Picture rail track (2m length)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

6 each · Rail brackets

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

2 each · Rail joiners

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-08Hang hooks and cablesClip the picture hooks onto the rail at your marked spacing and thread the hanging cables or cords down to picture height. Attach the cable clamp or hook to the frame, leaving enough slack to adjust the picture level. Check each hook slides freely along the rail before you commit a heavy frame to it.

6 each · Rail hooks

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

6 each · Hanging cables/cord

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-09Test the fixings and tidy upHang your heaviest picture first and check nothing shifts, tilts or pulls away from the wall after a few minutes. Recheck the rail is level along its full length. Sweep up drilling dust, vacuum the floor and skirting, and wipe down the wall. Keep any spare fixings and screws labelled in a bag in case you need to swap a hook later.

1 each · Dust sheet

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides