Fit a picture hanging rail system to a metal stud wall

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

1 each · Pencil

AB-02Work out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector or magnet along the wall to find the vertical studs — a magnet will catch on the line of screw heads holding the plasterboard on. Knock along the wall: a change from hollow to a duller, more solid sound marks a stud centre. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot; fine grey steel swarf means metal studs, pale wood dust means timber. Flats and anything built or refitted since the 1990s often use metal studs, so don't assume timber just because the last house you worked on had it.

1 each · Stud detector

1 each · Small magnet

1 each · 3mm drill bit

AB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the obvious safe zones — and a metal stud frame will confuse a cheap detector further. Sweep the whole line with your detector, then still treat every hole as if something could be there. Before you drill anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn the water off at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

AB-04Mark the bracket positionsHold the rail against your level line and mark each bracket position through the fixing holes, or measure out the spacing given in the instructions. Recheck with the spirit level as you go — a rail that's a few mm out over 3m will show. Mark exactly where each fixing point lands on a stud, and note any point that falls in the plasterboard between studs, as that needs a different fixing.

1 each · Pencil

1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

AB-05Fix brackets into metal studsFor a fixing point that lands on a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for metal studs — never a plastic wall plug or an ordinary wood screw, which will strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Drill a pilot hole sized to the fixing you're using, then drive the screw in straight and level; it should feel solid, not spinning loosely. A picture rail carrying only light framed pictures is fine on stud fixings alone, but for anything heavy or a long unsupported run, fit a timber noggin between the studs first or fix through to the masonry behind for real support.

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws (pack of 20)

1 pack · Metal-stud toggle fixings (pack of 10)

1 each · Cordless drill

AB-06Fix into any other wall types on the same runIf the rail run crosses onto a different wall type, change the fixing to match. Solid brick or block: drill 6mm with a masonry bit to 40mm depth, insert a plug and drive a screw home. Plasterboard on timber studs: pilot hole, wood screw into the centre of the stud. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a fixing long enough (60–75mm) to pass through the plaster and adhesive dabs into the blockwork behind, with a plug rated for the cavity gap. Lath and plaster: locate a timber lath with your detector and screw into it, or use a spring toggle made for laths — old plaster crumbles easily, so drill slowly and support it from behind if you can.

1 pack · Masonry wall plugs (pack of 20)

1 each · 6mm masonry drill bit

1 pack · Long dot-and-dab fixings (pack of 10)

AB-07Fit the brackets and clip in the railScrew each bracket to the wall using the fixing you chose for that point, tightening evenly so none sit proud. Slide or clip the rail track into the brackets as directed by the manufacturer. If your wall length needs more than one length of rail, join the sections with the supplied connector and check the joint sits flush.

3 each · Picture rail track (2m length)

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6 each · Rail brackets

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2 each · Rail joiners

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AB-08Hang hooks and cablesClip the picture hooks onto the rail at your marked spacing and thread the hanging cables or cords down to picture height. Attach the cable clamp or hook to the frame, leaving enough slack to adjust the picture level. Check each hook slides freely along the rail before you commit a heavy frame to it.

6 each · Rail hooks

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6 each · Hanging cables/cord

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AB-09Test the fixings and tidy upHang your heaviest picture first and check nothing shifts, tilts or pulls away from the wall after a few minutes. Recheck the rail is level along its full length. Sweep up drilling dust, vacuum the floor and skirting, and wipe down the wall. Keep any spare fixings and screws labelled in a bag in case you need to swap a hook later.

1 each · Dust sheet

1 each · Vacuum cleaner