Fit a pressure-fit stair gate

Fit a pressure-fit stair gate safely, checking wall type, spacing, and adding secure screw cups where the gate needs extra support.

SG-01Measure the gap and check the gate's rangeMeasure the opening at its narrowest point, top and bottom, in mm. Check this fits within the gate's stated size range on the box - most pressure-fit gates cover roughly 690-1000mm with extensions. If the gap is wider, you'll need the manufacturer's extension kit rather than forcing the gate.

1 each · Tape measure

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SG-02Work out what's on each side of the gapYou need to know what the gate will press against - solid brick or block, plasterboard on timber studs, plasterboard on metal studs, dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry, or lath and plaster (common in pre-1930s houses). Run a stud detector or a magnet along the wall to find fixings - screw heads in a straight vertical line mean a stud or dot-and-dab batten behind. Tap the wall: a solid, dead sound is brick or block; a hollow sound between fixing points is stud or dot-and-dab. If unsure, drill a small 3mm test hole in a spot that will be hidden by the gate's fitting cups - timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey metal swarf means a metal stud, and a soft crumbly plaster with a lath behind means lath and plaster.

1 each · Stud and pipe detector

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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SG-03Fit any spacers or extension piecesIf your gap is wider than the gate's base width, fit the supplied spacer blocks or extension kit now, following the gate's instructions. These usually clip or screw onto the main frame before it goes in the opening. Fit them evenly on both sides so the gate sits square.

1 each · Stair gate extension kit (if needed)

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SG-04Fit the wall-mounted safety cups, if using themMost pressure-fit gates work on pressure alone, but the top of a staircase is the one place where extra security is worth it - fit the screw-in wall cups supplied with the gate for real peace of mind. Before you drill: cables and pipes can run anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual zones. Use your detector, but still treat the wall as live until you've proved otherwise - detectors miss deep cables, cables in metal conduit, and cables behind metal-backed plasterboard, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before you drill.

1 each · Cordless drill

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SG-05Choose the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole to 35mm depth, insert a 6mm wall plug, and use a 40mm screw. Timber stud: find the centre of the stud, drill a 3mm pilot hole, and drive a 40mm wood screw straight into the timber - no plug needed. Metal stud: never use a wood screw or plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel; use a self-drilling metal-stud screw if you hit the stud, or a hollow-wall toggle fixing rated for the load if you land on the plasterboard between studs. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to reach the solid masonry behind the plasterboard, typically 60-75mm, with a plug sized for the gap. Lath and plaster: this is weak and can crack - drill a small pilot hole first and, if possible, locate a timber batten or joist behind the lath; otherwise use a proper plasterboard anchor rated for the pull-out load, fitted gently.

4 each · 6mm wall plugs (masonry)

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4 each · 40mm wood screws

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4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

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4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

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SG-06Check for a noggin if fixing into a metal stud aloneA metal stud on its own will not hold a gate that gets pulled and leant on repeatedly by a toddler or an adult stepping over it. If both fixing points land on bare metal stud with no timber noggin behind, either fix through to the door frame or masonry instead, or fit a timber noggin between the studs before fitting the cups. Skip this step if you're fixing to solid brick, block, dot-and-dab, or a timber stud.

1 each · Timber noggin (50x50mm, cut to length)

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SG-07Position the gate and pressure-fit itSet the gate frame in the opening, hinge side first, and press the pressure bolts or cams against the wall or cups. Tighten each side evenly until the gate feels rock solid with no side-to-side movement. Most gates have a pressure indicator that turns green when it's tight enough - check both sides show green, not just one.

SG-08Test the gate properlyOpen and close the gate several times to check the latch engages smoothly and the gate swings freely. Push firmly on the closed gate from both sides to check it doesn't shift or lift off its fixings. At the top of stairs, check the gate opens away from the stairs, not over them.

SG-09Tidy up and do a final checkSweep up any drilling dust or debris and vacuum the carpet or floor nearby. Check no loose screws or plugs have been left on a stair tread. Give the gate one last firm push test before letting anyone use the stairs.

1 each · Dust sheet

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