Fit a roller blind outside the window recess on a lath and plaster wall

Fit an outside-recess roller blind on a lath and plaster wall, checking what's behind the plaster before you drill.

RB-01Prepare the room and check your kitClear the area under the window and lay a dust sheet on the floor and sill. Check the roller blind kit has two brackets, a tube with the fabric already fitted, and its fixing screws. Read the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended bracket spacing and drop, since this varies between kits.

1 each · Roller blind kit

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1 each · Dust sheet

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RB-02Measure and mark the bracket positionsMeasure the width of the window recess and decide how far the blind should overhang each side to block light properly — 75-100mm each side is typical for an outside-recess fit. Mark the top fixing line in pencil, then use a spirit level to draw a level line across the wall for both brackets. Mark the exact screw positions on this line, the same distance in from each side.

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level

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RB-03Work out what's behind the lath and plasterLath and plaster has a thin timber lath framework with small gaps, so tapping the wall gives an uneven, slightly hollow sound compared with solid brick — that's normal and doesn't mean you're on a stud wall. Run a detector along your marked line to check for a run of evenly spaced upright timbers (usually 400-600mm apart), which would mean a stud partition, rather than solid masonry behind the laths. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at one marked point: pale, gritty dust means masonry behind the laths; pale wood shavings mean a timber lath or stud; if the drill drops through with no resistance, you're over an empty stud bay and need to shift the fixing point slightly.

1 each · Cable, pipe and stud detector

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1 each · Drill bit, 3mm (pilot)

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RB-04Check for cables and pipes, then isolate if neededCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, not just in the usual safe zones, and a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely before you start, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before drilling anywhere near a pipe run.

RB-05Drill and fit fixings — lath and plaster over solid masonryIf your pilot hole test brought out masonry dust, you're drilling through plaster and lath into brick or block behind. Drill through the plaster and lath first, then continue with a masonry bit into the solid material behind, to a total depth of at least 35mm past the lath gap. Push in a wall plug long enough to sit fully in the masonry, not in the void, and use a screw around 60-70mm long so it spans the lath and plaster and grips solidly behind it.

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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1 pack · Wall plugs (masonry)

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1 pack · Screws, 60-70mm

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RB-06Drill and fit fixings — lath and plaster over a timber stud wallIf your pilot hole test brought out wood shavings, you're fixing into a timber stud or batten behind the laths. Use a wood screw at least 50-60mm long, driven into the centre of the stud, allowing for the 20-25mm thickness of lath and plaster plus a minimum 25mm bite into the timber. If a bracket position falls between studs, don't rely on the laths alone — shift the bracket a few centimetres to land on the stud centre, or fit a short timber noggin between the studs first. Metal stud partitions are very rare behind lath and plaster, as the two methods were never really used together, but if you do find one, treat it as a stud wall and use a proper metal-stud fixing, never a plain wood screw, which strips straight through thin steel.

1 pack · Wood screws, 50-60mm

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1 length · Timber noggin, 38x25mm

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RB-07Fix the brackets to the wallHold each bracket on its marked position and screw it firmly to the wall using the fixing you've chosen for what's behind. Check the top edges of both brackets are still level before fully tightening. Give each bracket a firm tug once fixed — it should feel solid, not just tight in loose plaster.

1 each · Screwdriver

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RB-08Fit the blind and test itClick the roller tube into the brackets as shown in the kit instructions, chain or spring end first depending on the design. Pull the blind down and back up a few times to check it runs smoothly and sits level. Adjust the chain tensioner or end stops if the blind doesn't hang straight.

RB-09Tidy upVacuum plaster and masonry dust from the sill, floor and dust sheet. Wipe down the wall and window frame with a damp cloth. Fold away the dust sheet and dispose of any packaging.

1 each · Cloth

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