Fit a roller blind to a concrete ceiling

Fit a roller blind squarely to any ceiling, checking safely what's really up there and using the right fixing for it.

AB-01Gather your tools and check the blind kitLay out the roller blind kit, brackets, screws and end caps, and check you've got a ceiling-fix bracket rather than a wall-fix one. Get steps or a stable stool, a tape measure, pencil, spirit level, SDS drill with a masonry bit, a normal drill/driver, and a stud or joist detector. Check the blind width against your window recess or fixing surface, leaving at least 50mm clearance each side for the brackets.

1 each · Roller blind kit with brackets

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Spirit level

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Tape measure

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Stud/joist detector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-02Work out what your ceiling is actually made ofFlats with a concrete floor above, and many purpose-built blocks, have solid concrete ceilings that sound dense and give the same dull thud wherever you tap them. In older houses, and under most upper rooms, the ceiling is plasterboard or lath and plaster fixed to timber joists, so tapping sounds hollow between joists and firmer over each one, roughly every 400mm or 600mm. Run your joist detector along the ceiling to find joist centres, or — after doing the safety checks in the next step — drill one small test hole: solid grey dust and hard, even resistance means concrete, pale wood dust means a timber joist, and fine grey metal swarf with a sudden stop means a metal furring channel. Lath and plaster ceilings, common in homes built before about 1930, feel slightly springy when tapped and the plaster can crack if you drill without finding the lath or joist behind it.

AB-03Mark and level the bracket positionsHold the top rail of the blind, or the bracket itself, against the ceiling at the height given in the kit instructions, and mark each fixing hole with a pencil. Use the spirit level across both marks so the blind hangs straight rather than by eye. Mark the two outer brackets first, then any centre support bracket for wider blinds, spacing them evenly across the width.

AB-04Stay safe before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a ceiling, not just in straight lines, so run a detector over every mark before you drill. Detectors miss cables that are buried deep, run in metal conduit, sit behind metal-backed plasterboard, or lie outside the usual safe zones, so treat every hole as if something could be there until you've drilled through it cleanly. Find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

AB-05Drill and fit the fixings for your ceiling typeOn solid concrete, drill with an SDS drill and a 6mm masonry bit to 40mm depth, fit the wall plug supplied, then drive in the screw. Into a timber joist, drill a 2mm pilot hole into the centre of the joist and drive a wood screw straight in — no plug needed. Into a metal joist or furring channel, never use a wood screw or plastic plug, which strips straight through thin steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the blind's weight instead, and if the blind is wide or heavy, fix a short timber batten across the joists first for a solid base. On lath and plaster, aim to hit the timber joist behind the lath for the strongest fix, or use a plasterboard toggle rated for the blind's weight if you can't, drilling slowly to avoid cracking the plaster.

1 each · SDS masonry bit 6mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Wall plugs (pack)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Wood screws (pack)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings (pack of 4)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 each · Timber batten offcut, 500mm

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings (pack)

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

AB-06Fit the brackets and hang the blindScrew each bracket into its fixing, checking with the spirit level that the top rail will sit horizontal once clipped in. Clip the roller tube into the brackets as shown in the kit instructions, usually pin end first, then snap the opposite end into place. Check the tube spins freely and the fabric unrolls evenly before fitting any end caps or covers.

AB-07Test the blind and fit the child-safety devicePull the blind fully down and back up a few times to check it runs smoothly and the brackets stay tight. UK safety rules require corded blinds to include a child-safety device, such as a cleat or breakaway connector, to reduce the risk of strangulation — fit this exactly as shown in the kit instructions and mount any cleat high enough that a child can't reach it. Keep the cord or chain short and well away from any cot, bed or nursery furniture.

RULES

1 each · Cord cleat or breakaway connector

Buy:ScrewfixB&QToolstationAmazon

KNOW THE RULES

UK safety regulations require corded blinds to be sold and fitted with a child-safety device (such as a cleat or breakaway connector) to reduce strangulation risk. Always fit the device supplied with the kit.

AB-08Tidy upVacuum or sweep up any drilling dust from the floor and windowsill, and wipe down the ceiling around the fixings. Collect packaging offcuts and spare screws, and store them with the blind's instructions in case you need to remove it later. Do a final check that the blind operates smoothly and hangs level before finishing.

Some links may earn us a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides