Fit a roller blind to a lath and plaster ceiling

1 each · Step ladder

RB-02Mark the fixing line with a spirit levelHold the blind's headrail (or the bracket template) up to the ceiling and mark the two outer screw positions in pencil. Use a spirit level to check the line is dead level before you commit to any marks. A blind that's even a few millimetres out of level will visibly slope when it's down.

1 each · Spirit level

1 each · Pencil

RB-03Work out what's above you before you drillRun a stud detector or magnet along each marked line to find the joists or metal channels above the plaster or boards. A hollow sound between hits usually means you're between joists; a dull, solid sound means old lath and plaster, which is much thinner and softer than modern plasterboard. Drill a small pilot hole at one mark and check what comes out: pale timber dust means a joist, fine grey powder means old lime plaster with no joist behind it, and bright metal swarf means a metal furring channel. Dot-and-dab is a wall-only technique, so you won't find it on a ceiling — skip that check here. Before drilling anywhere, remember cables can run across a ceiling void almost anywhere, especially near light fittings, and bathroom pipework can run above a ground-floor ceiling too. A detector can miss cables in metal conduit or behind metal-backed board, so find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start, and if you have any doubt at all, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.

1 each · Stud and cable detector

1 each · Cordless drill with small pilot bit

RB-04Fixing into a lath and plaster ceilingNever rely on the laths or plaster alone — they will crumble under any pulling weight. Drill through the plaster and lath at a slight angle if needed until you hit the joist behind, then use a 65mm wood screw straight into the centre of the joist. If the plaster around the hole is soft or cracked, screw through a small timber or plastic pattress first to spread the load and stop the hole enlarging over time.

4 each · Wood screws 65mm

2 each · Timber pattress, small

RB-05Fixing into timber joists under a boarded ceilingIf the ceiling has been re-boarded in plasterboard over the original joists, find the joist centre the same way, then drill a pilot hole and drive a 50-65mm wood screw straight in. Don't fix into plasterboard alone between joists — it isn't rated to hold a blind that gets pulled and tugged every day.

4 each · Wood screws 50-65mm

RB-06Fixing into a metal furring channel ceilingSome flats and refitted rooms have a metal channel ceiling instead of timber joists. Use self-drilling metal-stud screws or a steel toggle fixing rated for the channel thickness — a plain wood screw or plastic wall plug will strip straight through 0.5mm steel and drop out. A single metal channel won't take the ongoing pull of a roller blind reliably, so fix through two channels with a timber batten (see next step) rather than one screw on its own.

4 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

4 each · Steel toggle fixing

RB-07Fixing into a solid concrete ceilingIn some flats and new-build rooms the ceiling is a solid concrete slab. Drill with a masonry bit and hammer action, using a bit 1-2mm wider than your plug, to a depth of at least 40mm. Fit a red or brown masonry wall plug and drive in a matching screw — never use a plasterboard fixing here, it won't grip.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

4 each · Masonry wall plugs

4 each · Screws 50mm

RB-08Fit a timber batten if the brackets don't line upIf your bracket marks fall between joists or channels with nothing solid behind them, screw a 32x25mm timber batten across at least two joists (or two metal channels) first, following the fixing method above for whichever type you have. Once the batten is firmly fixed, you can screw the blind brackets into the batten anywhere along its length.

1 m · Timber batten 32x25mm

RB-09Fix the brackets and hang the blindScrew both brackets to the ceiling using the fixing method that matches what you found in step RB-03. Check the line is still level once both brackets are up, then click the blind's headrail into the brackets as shown in the kit's instructions.

1 each · Spirit level

RB-10Fit the child-safety device and test the blindUK safety rules require corded roller blinds to have a safety device fitted, such as a breakaway connector or a cleat that keeps the cord or chain out of reach and unable to loop. Fit the cleat to the wall or window frame at a height well above where a small child could reach, following the kit's instructions. Raise and lower the blind a few times to check it runs smoothly and sits level.

RULES

1 each · Blind cord cleat or breakaway connector

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KNOW THE RULES

UK safety standard BS EN 13120 requires corded blinds to have a child safety device fitted (a breakaway connector or cord cleat). This is a genuine safety requirement, not just advice, especially where children may be present.

RB-11Tidy upVacuum up any plaster or masonry dust from the ceiling and floor, especially loose bits from old lath and plaster. Wipe down the ledge or sill below and put your tools away. Give the blind a final up-and-down check before you fold the ladder away.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner

1 each · Dust sheet