Fit a roman blind to a dot-and-dab plasterboard wall — HomeGraft

Fit a roman blind above your window safely, checking your wall type first and using the fixing that matches it.

RB-01Unpack the kit and check everything's thereLay a dust sheet under the window. Open the blind kit and check you have the headrail or brackets, fixing screws, the blind itself, and a cleat or safety device for the cords. Measure the window recess or the wall space above it to confirm the blind is the right width before you drill anything.

1 each · Roman blind kit (with brackets or headrail)

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1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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RB-02Mark your bracket positionsHold the brackets against the wall where you want the headrail, usually 30-50mm above the window recess so the blind clears the frame. Use a spirit level to draw a level line across, then mark each screw hole through the bracket with a pencil. Getting this line level now saves a wonky blind later.

1 each · Spirit level

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RB-03Work out what's behind your marksRun a detector over the marked line first. Tap along the wall: a dull thud usually means solid brick or block, a hollow sound means plasterboard on studs or dot-and-dab dabs. Drag a magnet along a line of screw heads (skirting or socket plates are a good guide) — if it grips, you likely have metal studs. A tiny pilot hole tells you the rest: pale dust is timber or plaster, fine grey swarf is metal, and if the drill sinks in then hits something solid a little further, that's dot-and-dab over masonry.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Small magnet

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RB-04Do your safety checks before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere, and a detector can miss deep cables, metal conduit, or anything behind metal-backed board — treat the wall as live until you prove otherwise. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt about what's behind your marks, isolate the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and know where the stopcock is before you cut into anything that could carry water.

RB-05Fix the brackets — dot-and-dab plasterboardDot-and-dab has a 10-50mm air gap between the plasterboard and the masonry wall behind, so a normal plug will just spin in the void. Drill through the board and gap into the brick or block behind, then use a long frame-fixing screw (75-92mm) with its integral plug so it grips the masonry, not just the board. Wind it in until the bracket sits tight against the plasterboard, not the fixing.

4 each · Frame fixing screws, 7.5 x 92mm

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1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

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RB-06Fix the brackets — solid brick or block wallDrill a 6mm hole to a depth of about 40mm using a masonry bit, and clear the dust out. Push in a matching wall plug until it's flush, then drive a 40mm screw into the centre of the plug. Check the bracket is tight before moving to the next hole.

4 each · Wall plugs, 6mm

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4 each · Screws, 4 x 40mm

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RB-07Fix the brackets — plasterboard on timber studsOnce you've found the centre of a timber stud, drill a small pilot hole to stop the screw splitting the wood, then drive a 40mm wood screw straight in. Timber studs are usually 400mm or 600mm apart, so plan your bracket spacing to land on one wherever you can rather than relying only on plasterboard.

4 each · Wood screws, 4 x 40mm

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RB-08Fix the brackets — plasterboard on metal studsNever use a plain wall plug or an ordinary wood screw in a metal stud — it strips straight through 0.5mm steel and the bracket will pull out. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw designed to bite into the steel track, or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor if you're fixing into the plasterboard between studs. A roman blind is light, but the cord pull can tug the bracket forward over time, so if the wall feels at all flimsy, fix through to the masonry behind instead, or fit a short timber noggin between the studs first.

4 each · Self-drilling metal stud screws

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4 each · Hollow-wall toggle fixings

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RB-09Fix the brackets — lath and plasterLath and plaster feels solid but slightly springy, and a pilot hole often brings out old, fine plaster dust with flecks of timber. The plaster itself won't hold a screw, so find the wood laths behind (roughly every 400mm) and screw into those, or into a stud if there's one nearby. If you can't land on solid timber, screw a short length of batten across two laths or studs first and fix the bracket to that.

4 each · Screws, 4 x 50mm

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1 each · Timber batten, 25 x 50mm, 600mm length

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RB-10Fit the headrail to the bracketsClip or screw the headrail onto the fixed brackets, following the kit instructions — most click into place and are locked with a small screw. Run your spirit level along the top to check it's still dead level before you move on.

RB-11Attach the blind and thread the cordsHook or press the blind's fabric strip onto the headrail as shown in the kit instructions. Feed the lift cords through the eyelets down the back of the blind and gather them at one side, checking they run freely without twisting.

RB-12Test the blind and fit the child safety deviceRaise and lower the blind a few times to check it runs smoothly and doesn't snag on the frame. Trim any excess cord, then fit the cleat or breakaway safety device supplied with the kit, mounted high on the wall out of a child's reach. UK safety rules require corded blinds to have a working child safety device fitted — this is not optional, especially if the room may ever be used by children.

RULES

1 each · Cord cleat or safety device (usually supplied)

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KNOW THE RULES

Corded blinds sold in the UK must meet BS EN 13120 child safety requirements. Always fit and use the cleat or breakaway device that comes with the blind, mounted well out of reach of children.

RB-13Clear upVacuum up any drilling dust from the sill and floor, then fold away the dust sheet. Bag up packaging and offcuts, and check the wall around your fixings is clean and free of dust before you call it done.

1 each · Rubbish bag

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