Fit a roman blind to a lath and plaster wall

Fit a roman blind above a window, checking your wall type first and using the right fixing for a secure, level batten.

RB-01Gather tools and clear the areaLay a dust sheet under the window and move furniture out of the way. Take down any existing curtains, poles or blinds. Lay out your tools so you're not hunting for them once you're up a ladder.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Cordless drill driver

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1 each · Stud/cable detector

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RB-02Work out what's behind the wall above the windowLath and plaster is thin timber strips (laths) under lime plaster, usually found in pre-1930s houses. It feels slightly springy when you press it and sounds hollow between laths, unlike solid brick which sounds dense and dull. Run a detector across the area, and also check for a line of old nail heads roughly every 300-400mm — that's the lath pattern. If the wall above the window has been replastered onto studs or is dot-and-dab plasterboard over brick, treat it the way this guide describes for that type further down.

RB-03Check for cables and pipes, and know how to isolate themCables and pipes can run in places you don't expect, including diagonally above sockets and switches. Use your detector, but still treat every drilling point as if something could be there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. Find your stopcock now (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you drill anything near a wall that could hide a pipe. If you have any doubt, turn off the relevant circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and shut off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

RB-04Mark and level the batten positionHold the batten above the window reveal, extending 20-30mm past each side so the blind sits clear of the frame. Mark the top edge with a pencil, then use a spirit level to draw a level line across the full width. Mark your fixing points along this line, spacing them roughly every 300-400mm, with one near each end.

1 each · Timber batten (25 x 50mm, cut to width)

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RB-05Drill your fixing holesFor lath and plaster, put a strip of masking tape over the mark first — this stops the plaster cracking as the drill bites. Drill slowly and steadily through the plaster and lath into whatever is behind (often solid brick above a window, or a timber lintel or stud). A pilot hole bringing out reddish dust and old lime plaster confirms lath and plaster; hitting solid resistance and brick dust means you've reached masonry behind it. If instead you find plasterboard on timber studs, drill into the centre of the stud. On plasterboard on metal studs, a pilot hole brings out fine bright steel swarf instead of timber dust — stop and switch to a metal-stud fixing. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, expect a gap of 10-40mm behind the board before you reach masonry; your fixing needs to be long enough to bridge this.

1 roll · Masking tape

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RB-06Choose and fit the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block behind lath and plaster: drill an 8mm hole to 40mm depth, insert a red wall plug, and drive in a 50-60mm screw. Timber stud: use a 50-60mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud, no plug needed. Metal stud: never use a wood screw or plain plug — they strip straight through 0.5mm steel. Use a self-drilling metal-stud screw or a toggle-type hollow-wall anchor rated for the batten's weight. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough to pass through the plasterboard, the adhesive gap, and 40mm into the masonry behind — typically 75-90mm total. A roman blind batten is light, so a stud or masonry fixing is normally enough; you don't usually need a noggin unless the wall is metal stud with no solid backing available.

6 each · Red wall plugs (masonry)

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6 each · Wood screws (50-60mm)

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6 each · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

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6 each · Toggle-type hollow-wall anchors

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6 each · Long fixings for dot-and-dab (75-90mm)

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RB-07Screw the batten in placeHold the batten against your marked line and drive the screws through it into your prepared fixings. Check the batten is still level once fixed, and give it a firm tug to make sure it doesn't move.

RB-08Attach the blind to the battenMost roman blinds come with a strip of touch-fastener tape (Velcro) already sewn to the top. Peel and stick, or staple, the matching strip to the front top edge of the batten, then press the blind's tape firmly onto it. If your blind has screw tabs instead, screw them directly into the underside of the batten every 150-200mm.

1 metre · Touch-fastener tape (hook and loop)

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1 each · Staple gun and staples

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RB-09Test the blind and adjustRaise and lower the blind a few times to check it runs smoothly and hangs straight. If it pulls to one side, loosen the batten screws slightly and re-level before retightening. Tuck cords and chains into a cleat or child-safety device at a safe height, well out of reach of children.

1 each · Cord cleat or safety device

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RB-10Tidy upVacuum up plaster dust and any wood or metal swarf from the floor and windowsill. Fold away the dust sheet and dispose of debris. Put your tools away and check the room looks as it did before you started.

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