Fit a rotary washing line ground socket

Dig or drill a hole, set a ground socket level in quick-set concrete, and leave it to cure before use.

GS-01Choose and check the spotPick level ground with room for the arms to open fully — most rotary lines need a clear circle of 1.5-2m radius, so check your line's spec. Keep it clear of overhanging trees, boundary fences, paths and drain covers. Avoid a spot right next to the house wall or a patio edge where the open arms will catch.

GS-02Gather your tools and materialsYou'll need a spade, a bucket, a trowel, a spirit level and a rubber mallet. For lawn or soil you just need the spade; for concrete or paving you'll also need an SDS drill with a core bit or purpose-made ground socket auger.

1 each · Rotary washing line ground socket

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2 bag · Quick-setting postcrete concrete (20kg bag)

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1 small bag · Gravel or rubble for drainage layer

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1 each · Rubber mallet

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1 each · Mixing bucket

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GS-03Check for buried pipes and cables before you digThink about what might run under this spot: drainage pipes, a water pipe to an outside tap, or a cable to a shed or summerhouse. Sweep the area with a cable and pipe detector first, but don't trust it completely — detectors can miss plastic pipes and cables that run deeper than expected. Dig the first 150mm by hand with a spade rather than forcing a tool straight down, so you feel anything solid before you hit it hard. Find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you do nick a pipe.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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GS-04Make the hole — lawn, soil, concrete or pavingIn lawn or soil: dig a hole about 200mm across and 300-350mm deep with straight sides, setting the turf aside on a sheet to relay later. In existing concrete or paving: mark the centre, then bore a hole to the same depth with an SDS drill fitted with a masonry core bit or ground socket auger. Wear eye protection and a dust mask, and pour a little water over the bit now and then to keep dust down if drilling for any length of time.

1 each · SDS drill with masonry core bit (concrete/paving only)

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GS-05Set the socket and check it's levelTip a 50mm layer of gravel into the bottom of the hole for drainage. Lower the ground socket in so its rim sits flush with or just below the surrounding surface. Rest the spirit level across the rim both ways and adjust until it's dead level — wedge it in place with a couple of bricks or ask someone to hold it steady while you mix the concrete.

GS-06Fill around the socket with concrete and let it cureMix the postcrete with water following the bag instructions and pour it into the hole around the socket, tamping gently with a stick to remove air pockets. Check the spirit level again straight away, before the mix starts to go off, and correct if it's shifted. Leave it undisturbed for at least 24 hours before using the socket, even if the surface feels firm sooner.

GS-07Fit the cap and tidy upOnce cured, fit the socket's flush cap so it doesn't become a trip hazard when the line isn't in use. Relay the turf around the edge or brush sand into the gap on a paved area. Clear away spoil and offcuts of concrete bag.

GS-08Test the lineLift the cap and slot the rotary line's pole into the socket. Open the arms and check it stands firm and upright with no wobble or lean. If it's loose, don't force it — dig it out, add more concrete, and let it cure again before retesting.

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