Fit an ironing board holder to a timber stud wall

Screw an ironing board holder to the wall securely, checking what's behind it and using the right fixing for a safe hold.

IB-01Choose the spot and mark it upPick a wall near where you iron, with at least 900mm of clear space in front so the board can fold down and swing freely. Hold the holder against the wall at a comfortable height, usually 1500-1600mm from the floor, and mark the fixing holes with a pencil. Lay a dust sheet below to catch drilling dust and dropped screws.

1 each · Dust sheet

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

1 each · Pencil

Buy:Tooled UpB&QAmazon

IB-02Work out what's behind the wallRun your detector along the marked line and tap the wall, comparing a dull hollow sound between studs to a solid knock over a stud or over masonry. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at one mark to confirm: timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud, and a hard, gritty feel with brick dust means solid masonry or dot-and-dab plasterboard over masonry. A slightly springy wall with an uneven, narrow hollow knock is likely lath and plaster.

IB-03Check for cables and pipes before you drillCables and pipes can run almost anywhere in a wall, not just in the usual safe zones. Sweep the area with a detector, but still treat the wall as live until you prove otherwise, since detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, behind metal-backed plasterboard, or confused by a metal stud frame. Find your stopcock now, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely so you can shut off the water fast if you hit a pipe. If you have any doubt at all, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.

IB-04Drill and fit the right fixing for your wallSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 50mm deep and fit a 6mm wall plug with a 4mm x 50mm screw. Plasterboard on a timber stud: drill a 3mm pilot hole into the centre of the stud and drive in a 4mm x 50mm wood screw, no plug needed. Plasterboard on a metal stud will not hold an ironing board holder on its own, because the board pulls away from the wall every time you use it — fit a timber noggin between the studs first, or use a self-drilling metal-stud toggle rated for the full pull-out load. For dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a fixing at least 75mm long that passes through the plasterboard and dab into the masonry behind, with a matching wall plug. For lath and plaster, drill carefully through the brittle plaster and lath into the masonry or joist behind, using a plug and screw sized to bridge the gap.

1 pack · 6mm wall plugs (pack of 10)

Buy:Travis PerkinsB&QAmazon

1 pack · 4mm x 50mm screws (pack of 10)

Buy:Travis PerkinsB&QAmazon

2 each · Metal-stud toggle fixing

Buy:Travis PerkinsB&QAmazon

1 each · Timber noggin (45mm x 45mm, cut to length)

Buy:Travis PerkinsB&QAmazon

1 each · Masonry drill bit, 6mm

Buy:Tooled UpMachine MartB&QAmazon

IB-05Screw the holder bracket to the wallHold the ironing board holder against the marks, line it up with a spirit level, and drive the screws through the mounting holes into your fixings. Tighten until snug, but stop before you crush or crack the plasterboard. If the holder has a second, lower fixing point, use the same method you used for the top hole.

1 each · Ironing board holder bracket

Buy:B&QAmazon

IB-06Test the fixing and tidy upPull the ironing board down and let it hang for a minute to test the fixing under load, checking for movement or cracking around the screws. Vacuum up dust and offcuts, and touch up any paint or filler around the fixing if needed. Hang the ironing board on the holder to finish.

1 each · Filler (small tub)

Buy:B&QAmazon

Travis Perkins, Tooled Up and Machine Mart links are affiliate links: if you buy after clicking, we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. B&Q and Amazon links are plain searches and earn us nothing.

Save this as a project

Back to all guides

Related guides