DOORS & JOINERY

Fit architrave around a door

Fit new architrave around a door, mitring the corners neatly and fixing it firmly to whatever is behind the wall.

AR-01Set up and check the door liningLay a dust sheet and clear the doorway. Check the door lining is fixed tight and square in the opening — architrave will not hide a wobbly lining. Wipe the wall and lining clean of dust so filler and adhesive stick properly later.
1 each · Dust sheet
AR-02Work out what's behind the wall each side of the doorRun a stud detector or a magnet up the wall next to the lining. A line of regular clicks or the magnet catching on screw heads means a timber or metal stud wall behind the plasterboard. Tap the wall — a dull thud means solid brick or block, or dot-and-dab plasterboard on masonry, while a hollow sound means a stud wall or lath and plaster. A small pilot hole tells you more: pale wood dust means timber stud, fine grey swarf means metal stud, and brick dust or old lime plaster crumbs mean masonry or lath and plaster.
1 each · Stud and cable detector
AR-03Check for cables and pipes before you drill or nailCables and pipes can run in unexpected places, and a detector can miss deep cables, metal conduit, or anything behind metal-backed board — a metal stud frame also confuses cheap detectors. Treat every hole as a possible hit: find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns before you start. If you have any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling, and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry water.
AR-04Measure and cut the architraveMeasure the height of each leg from the floor (or top of skirting) to the top corner of the lining, and the width across the head piece between the two legs. Cut 45° mitres at the top of each leg and matching mitres on the head piece, using the mitring skill you already know. Cut one piece at a time and offer it up before cutting the next, since door openings are rarely perfectly square.
3 each · Softwood or MDF architrave, 2.4m length
1 each · Mitre saw or mitre block and tenon saw
AR-05Fix the head pieceHold the head piece in place and pin it to the door lining with lost head or brad nails, about every 300mm. If the head piece overlaps onto the wall above the lining, check what's behind it using AR-02: nail into a timber stud or noggin if there is one, or use panel adhesive along the back if it lands on plasterboard, dot-and-dab or masonry.
1 box · Lost head nails, 40mm
1 each · Nail gun (optional) or hammer and nail punch
AR-06Fix the two leg pieces — method depends on the wallPin each leg into the door lining every 300-400mm — this is your main fixing on every wall type. Where the outer edge of the architrave sits on the wall itself, the fixing changes: on a timber stud wall, nail into the stud or noggin where you find one; on a metal stud wall, do not nail or screw into the bare steel, as an ordinary nail or wood screw pulls straight through — rely on the pins into the lining and add panel adhesive along the back for extra grip. On solid brick or block, nailing is hard work and often splits the trim, so use grab adhesive along the back instead of nails. On dot-and-dab plasterboard, nails alone will not hold, so use adhesive plus pins into the lining; if you need a stronger fix, a fixing long enough to reach the masonry behind the dabs will hold better than anything in the board alone. On lath and plaster, use fewer pins than you think you need and go gently — the lath cracks easily — and back the trim up with adhesive rather than relying on nails.
1 box · Lost head nails, 40mm
1 tube · Panel and grab adhesive (gap-filling)
AR-07Punch nail heads and check the mitresUse a nail punch to sink each nail head just below the surface. Check the mitred corners are tight and flush — tap gently with a hammer over a scrap block if a corner needs closing up.
1 each · Nail punch
AR-08Fill nail holes and caulk the gapsFill the punched nail holes with a fine wood filler and let it dry. Run a thin bead of decorator's caulk along the joint between the architrave and the wall, and along the mitred corners, then smooth it with a wet finger. Wipe off any excess straight away.
1 each · Wood filler, small tub
1 tube · Decorator's caulk
AR-09Sand and paint or finishOnce the filler and caulk are fully dry, sand lightly with fine sandpaper to leave a smooth surface. Prime any bare wood or filled areas, then apply two coats of your finish paint or varnish, letting each coat dry fully.
1 sheet · Fine sandpaper, 180 grit
1 tin · Wood primer
1 tin · Finish paint or varnish
AR-10Clear upCollect offcuts and dispose of them safely, wipe down the door and floor, and remove the dust sheet once the paint is dry to the touch.

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