WALLS & STRUCTURE

Fit coving

Learn how to measure, cut and fix coving neatly along your wall-ceiling junction, whatever the wall or ceiling type.

FC-01Plan the job and buy materialsMeasure the room's perimeter to work out how many 2m coving lengths you need, adding 10% for waste and mitres. Decide between lightweight polystyrene, denser PU, or traditional plaster coving — heavier coving needs stronger adhesive and temporary support while it sets. Check what your wall and ceiling are made of (solid masonry, plasterboard on studs, dot-and-dab, or lath and plaster), since this changes how you'll support it. Clear the room and lay dust sheets.
6 each · Coving, 2.4m length
1 each · Coving adhesive, tub
2 each · Dust sheet
FC-02Find your stopcock and check for cables and pipesBefore you drill or cut anything, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns freely, so you can shut the water off fast if you hit a pipe. Sweep the marked line with a cable/pipe detector, but still expect something to be there — detectors miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed plasterboard. If you're at all unsure, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling.
1 each · Cable and pipe detector
FC-03Mark your fixing lineHold an offcut of coving in the corner where wall meets ceiling and lightly pencil-mark its top and bottom edges on the wall. Use a spirit level or chalk line to carry this mark right around the room. This line shows exactly where the adhesive and any support screws will go.
1 each · Spirit level
1 each · Chalk line
FC-04Cut and dry-fit the cornersCut internal and external mitres using the technique you already know, working from one starting wall around the room. Dry-fit each length against your marked line before any adhesive goes on, and label pieces with masking tape so you know exactly where they go when it's time to fix them.
1 roll · Masking tape
FC-05Prepare the wall and ceiling surfaceScore through wallpaper along the marked line and peel it back, and rub down gloss paint so adhesive can grip bare plaster or masonry. Wipe the surface with sugar soap to remove dust and grease. On lath and plaster ceilings, press gently along the line first — if it flexes or crumbles, get this repaired before fixing coving, or it will pull away later.
1 bottle · Sugar soap
1 sheet · Sandpaper, fine grit
FC-06Mix and apply adhesiveMix plaster-based coving adhesive to a thick, non-slip paste (or use ready-mixed grab adhesive for polystyrene or PU coving). Apply a bead along both back edges of the coving, plus a thinner bead across each mitre joint. Press each piece firmly into place along your marked line and hold for the time stated on the tub.
1 each · Filling knife
FC-07Work out if your stud wall or ceiling is timber or metalIf any of your fixing line runs into a stud wall or ceiling, run a magnet or stud detector along it and look for a line of screw heads under the plasterboard — these mark the studs. Drill a small pilot hole on the line: fine pale dust means timber, fine grey metal swarf means a metal C-stud. Most flats, new-builds, and anything re-plastered since the 1990s use metal studs, so don't assume timber just because it sounds hollow.
1 each · Stud detector or magnet
FC-08Support heavy coving with the right fixing for your wallPlaster coving can slide before adhesive cures, so drive temporary support screws every 400-500mm along the top edge, to be removed and filled once set. Before drilling, sweep the line again and treat the wall as if a cable or pipe is there until proven otherwise — check your stopcock is working and isolate the circuit at the consumer unit if unsure. In solid brick or block, drill 6mm and use a wall plug with a 40mm screw. Into a timber stud, drive a 40mm wood screw into its centre; into a metal stud, use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing — never a wood screw or plastic plug, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Behind dot-and-dab plasterboard, use a 75-90mm fixing long enough to reach the masonry behind the dabs. On lath and plaster, avoid screws where you can — the laths crack easily — and rely on adhesive and extra support time instead.
1 pack · Wall plugs, assorted
1 pack · Wood screws, 40mm
1 pack · Metal-stud self-drilling fixings
1 pack · Masonry fixings, 75-90mm
FC-09Fill mitres, joints and screw holesOnce the adhesive has fully cured (usually 24 hours, check the tub), remove any temporary support screws and fill the holes with the same coving adhesive or fine filler. Run a damp finger or brush along each mitre and the wall/ceiling edges to smooth adhesive into a neat fillet, wiping off excess as you go.
1 tub · Fine surface filler
1 each · Damp cloth
FC-10Sand, caulk and tidy upOnce filler is dry, lightly hand-sand any rough patches — don't use a power sander, as it can flatten the coving's profile. Run a fine flexible caulk along any hairline gaps at the wall and ceiling for a seamless finish. Sweep up dust and debris and dispose of offcuts and empty tubs responsibly.
1 tube · Flexible decorator's caulk
2 each · Bin bags

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