Fit pull-out drawers under the stairs — HomeGraft

Build and fit a bespoke drawer unit into the awkward understairs space, from measuring to a smooth-running finish.

USD-01Measure the space and check the fire safety rulesMeasure the width, height and depth of the understairs void at the front, middle and back — the sloping stair line means these change along its length. Sketch the space and decide how many drawers you want and how deep each one can be at its shallowest point. If your staircase is the only escape route from an upper floor (common in flats and houses with loft conversions), understairs cupboards must meet fire safety rules. Check with your local authority building control if you are not sure this applies to your home.

RULES

1 each · Tape measure

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Notepad or graph paper

KNOW THE RULES

Under Approved Document B of the Building Regulations, understairs storage built into the only escape route from an upper floor needs 30-minute fire-resisting lining (such as 12.5mm plasterboard) and a self-closing fire door. Check with your local council's building control if in doubt.

USD-02Gather your tools and materialsBuy timber battens for the carcass frame, plywood for the panels, drawer runners, screws, wall plugs and handles before you start, so you are not stopping mid-job. Work out drawer widths from your sketch and buy runners to match. Keep a dust sheet handy — this is a dusty job in a tight space.

4 each · Timber battens 44x28mm x2.4m

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1 each · 12mm plywood sheet 2440x1220mm

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3 pair · Drawer runners, pair (400mm)

1 each · PVA wood glue

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1 each · Dust sheet

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USD-03Clear and prepare the spaceRemove any old skirting board, boxing-in or shelving inside the understairs void. Vacuum out dust and cobwebs, and check the floor is reasonably flat and the walls are sound. Note any visible pipework — stopcocks and their pipe runs are often boxed in under the stairs.

1 each · Vacuum cleaner (tool, not consumed)

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1 each · Pry bar

USD-04Identify your wall type and find hidden servicesTap along the wall — a dull hollow sound usually means you are between studs, a sharper solid sound means you are over one. Run a magnet or stud detector along the surface: screw heads under plasterboard often show up in a line at 400mm or 600mm centres, marking each stud. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole in an inconspicuous spot — pale timber dust means a timber stud, fine grey swarf means a metal stud (common in flats, new builds and anything refitted since the 1990s). Before you drill any further, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, and remember a detector can miss cables that are deep, in metal conduit, or behind metal-backed board — if there is any doubt, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit before drilling and turn off the water at the stopcock before cutting into anything that could carry a pipe.

1 each · Cable and pipe detector

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1 each · Magnet or stud detector

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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USD-05Build the carcass frameCut timber battens to form a simple box frame — two side panels, a base and a top rail — cutting the top rail on an angle to follow the pitch of the stairs so it sits flush. Glue and screw the corners square, then fix plywood panels over the frame if you want closed sides. Check every joint with a spirit level and a try square as you go, and build the frame outside the void if you have room to work more easily.

6 each · Timber battens 44x28mm

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1 sheet · 12mm plywood panels (cut to size)

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1 box · Wood screws 40mm, box

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1 each · Spirit level

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1 each · Try square

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USD-06Fix the carcass to the wallScrew the carcass side panels to the wall using a fixing suited to what is actually behind the surface. Solid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 45mm deep, insert a plug, and drive a 60mm screw. Plasterboard on timber studs: screw straight into the stud centre with a 50mm wood screw, no plug needed. Plasterboard on metal studs: never use a wood screw or a plastic plug, they strip straight through 0.5mm steel — use a self-drilling metal-stud screw, and if the drawers will pull outward when opened, fix into a timber noggin between the studs or through to the masonry behind instead. Dot-and-dab plasterboard: use a long 60-75mm fixing with a masonry plug that reaches through the 30-50mm air gap into the solid wall behind. Lath and plaster: drill a small pilot hole first to avoid cracking the old plaster, then screw into the timber lath or stud behind it. Recheck with your detector at each new fixing point before you drill, and keep the stopcock and consumer unit in mind as before.

1 each · Masonry drill bit 6mm

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1 pack · Red wall plugs, pack

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1 box · Wood screws 50-60mm, box

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud screws, pack

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1 pack · Toggle/hollow-wall fixings, pack

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1 each · Timber noggin offcut

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USD-07Fix the base to the floorCheck whether you have timber floorboards over joists or a solid concrete floor. Over joists, screw down through the base with 40mm screws, following the joist line rather than just biting into the floorboard. On concrete, drill and plug as you would for masonry, using a 40mm screw and a matching plug. Fit an L-bracket at the front corners if the frame needs extra rigidity to keep the runners level.

1 box · Wood screws 40mm, box

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1 pack · L-brackets, pack of 4

1 pack · Masonry plugs, pack

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USD-08Fit the drawer runnersMark a level line on each side panel for the runner height, using a spirit level, then screw the fixed part of each runner along the line with the short screws supplied. Leave the usual 12-13mm clearance either side of the drawer box for smooth running, following the runner manufacturer's spec. Test-pull each runner in and out before fitting the drawer boxes.

1 set · Drawer runner fixing screws (supplied)

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1 each · Spirit level

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USD-09Build and fit the drawer boxesAssemble the drawer boxes from 12mm plywood, gluing and screwing or pinning the corners square. Fix the moving part of each runner to the sides of the drawer box at the height you marked earlier. Slide each drawer into the carcass and check it runs smoothly and closes flush.

1 sheet · 12mm plywood (drawer boxes)

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1 box · Panel pins, box

1 each · PVA wood glue

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USD-10Fit drawer fronts and handlesCut the fronts to size, leaving an even 2-3mm gap all round for clearance. Fix each front to its drawer box from inside with short screws, checking it sits square and level before tightening fully. Mark and drill handle holes to a measured centre line, then fit the handles.

1 sheet · MDF or plywood for drawer fronts

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1 set · Handles, set of 3

1 box · Wood screws 25mm, box

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USD-11Tidy up and check the jobVacuum out all sawdust and offcuts from inside and around the drawers. Refit any skirting or trim you removed earlier, filling gaps with decorator's caulk. Open and close every drawer a few times to check smooth running, then stand back and check the fronts line up evenly.

1 each · Decorator's caulk

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1 each · Filler

1 pack · Sandpaper, pack

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