Plan shelf spacing in an alcove — HomeGraft

Measure your alcove, plan even shelf spacing, then fix supports safely to the wall behind.

AS-01Clear the alcove and gather your toolsEmpty the alcove completely and take down anything fixed to the walls either side. Lay a dust sheet on the floor to catch dust and dropped screws. Get all your tools together first so you're not hunting for them halfway through the job.

1 each · Dust sheet

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1 each · Tape measure (5m)

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1 each · Pencil

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1 each · Spirit level (600mm)

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1 each · Stud detector

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1 each · Cordless drill

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AS-02Measure the alcove top to bottomMeasure the height, width and depth of the alcove in at least three places: near the top, the middle, and near the floor. Old chimney breasts are rarely square, so write down any differences you find. Plan your shelves around these real measurements, not the ones you'd expect.

AS-03Work out shelf spacing for what you're storingList what's going on each shelf. Paperback books need about 250mm of height, box files need around 320mm, and ornaments can go tighter. Add 20mm clearance above the tallest item on each shelf, then check the total fits the alcove height with some room to spare at the top. Split any leftover height evenly between shelves so the spacing looks even, not just workable.

AS-04Mark the shelf heights on both wallsStarting from whichever is flatter, the floor or the ceiling, mark your first shelf height on one side wall. Use the spirit level to carry that line across to the other side wall and onto the back wall if it's a chimney breast recess. Repeat for each shelf, checking level every time - a shelf even 5mm out will be obvious once it's loaded.

AS-05Find out what's behind the wallRun a stud detector along each marked line, or slide a strong magnet along the wall to find the screw heads holding plasterboard to a frame - a regular pattern every 400-600mm means a stud wall. Tap along the line: a dull, solid sound means masonry or dot-and-dab; a hollow sound with firmer spots at regular intervals means a stud wall. Before drilling any test hole, find your stopcock (usually under the kitchen sink) and check it turns, and if there's any doubt about what's behind the wall, isolate the circuit at the consumer unit first - detectors miss deep cables, cables in conduit, and anything behind metal-backed board, and a metal stud frame can confuse a cheap detector further. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole on your line: solid resistance with grey dust means brick or block; solid resistance over a narrower band with pale wood dust means a timber stud; a hollow gap then a thin, very hard band with bright metal swarf means a metal stud; two hollow-solid-hollow bands mean lath and plaster.

1 each · Drill bit (3mm)

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AS-06Fix the shelf supports for your wall typeSolid brick or block: drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep, push in a red wall plug, and fix the batten or bracket with a 50mm screw. Timber stud: drive a 45mm wood screw straight into the centre of the stud you found in the last step. Metal stud: use a self-drilling metal-stud fixing or a toggle fixing rated for the wall - never a plain plastic wall plug or ordinary wood screw, which strips straight through 0.5mm steel. Fixing into plasterboard between studs: use a toggle or hollow-wall anchor rated for the shelf's expected weight. Dot-and-dab: use a fixing long enough (typically 75mm) to pass through the plasterboard and adhesive dabs and into the masonry behind, with a wall plug in the masonry. Lath and plaster: use a longer fixing that reaches through the lath into masonry or a timber noggin, and don't over-tighten, as old laths can crack under pressure. For heavy loads on any stud wall, fit a timber noggin between the studs or fix through to the masonry behind, rather than relying on the plasterboard alone.

8 each · Red wall plugs (6mm)

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8 each · Screws (50mm)

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3 metre · Timber batten (32x25mm)

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1 pack · Self-drilling metal-stud fixings

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1 pack · Toggle / hollow-wall fixings

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1 pack · Long fixings for dot-and-dab (75mm)

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AS-07Fit the batten or brackets levelScrew the batten or bracket to the wall along your marked line, checking it stays level as you go and tightening the fixings evenly so it doesn't bow. On longer shelves or heavier loads, add a bracket every 400-500mm rather than just fixing at each end.

AS-08Cut and fit the shelf boardMeasure the alcove width at each shelf height, since chimney breasts are rarely perfectly square, and cut the board to fit. Check it slides in without forcing before you commit to the cut. Sand any rough edges, then rest the board on the fixed batten or brackets and check it sits level.

1 each · Shelf board (18mm MDF or timber)

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1 sheet · Sandpaper

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AS-09Check, secure and tidy upPress down gently on each shelf to check it's secure and doesn't rock, then load it evenly rather than piling weight at one end. Sweep up dust and offcuts and dispose of them safely. Store any leftover fixings somewhere you'll find them for the next job.

1 each · Bin bags

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