Fit PVC ceiling panels in a bathroom — HomeGraft

Fit PVC ceiling panels onto ceiling battens in a bathroom, cutting around lights and vents, with power isolated throughout.

PVC-01Plan the job and clear the roomClear the bathroom, take down the shower curtain or blind, and cover the bath, floor and any fixed cabinets with dust sheets. Measure the ceiling, note the direction of the joists if you can see them in the loft above, and mark where the light fitting and extractor sit. Buy panels, trims and battens to size, adding 10% extra for waste and cuts.

2 each · Dust sheets

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6 each · PVC ceiling panels (250mm wide)

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4 length · PVC starter and edge trim

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PVC-02Isolate the power before you touch the light or fanCables can run almost anywhere above a bathroom ceiling, so turn off the lighting circuit and extractor fan circuit at the consumer unit before you go near either fitting. Prove the circuit is dead with a plug-in socket tester, don't just trust the light switch. Also find your stopcock, usually under the kitchen sink, and check it turns freely in case you hit a pipe once you start drilling.

RULES

1 each · Plug-in socket tester

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KNOW THE RULES

Any electrical work in a room with a bath or shower counts as a special location under Part P of the Building Regulations. This is notifiable work in England, even for minor jobs, unless done by a registered electrician who self-certifies it. Get advice before disconnecting or reconnecting wiring.

PVC-03Take down the light fitting and extractor grilleWith the power isolated and proved dead, unscrew the ceiling rose or light fitting and disconnect the wires, labelling them with tape if there's any chance you'll forget which is which. Remove the extractor fan grille and duct collar, leaving the fan body in place if you're panelling around it. Cap off any bare wire ends with insulated connectors and tuck them clear of where you'll be drilling.

1 pack · Insulated terminal connectors

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PVC-04Find the joists and work out what type they areUse a stud/joist detector or a magnet dragged along the ceiling to find the screw heads holding up the existing plasterboard, and pencil a line along each joist centre. Tap between the marks: a solid knock means you're over a joist, a hollow drum sound means you're between them. Drill a small 3mm pilot hole at a suspected joist - timber dust means it's a wooden joist, fine grey swarf means it's a light steel channel, which some flats and refitted bathrooms use instead of timber.

1 each · Stud/joist detector

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1 each · 3mm drill bit

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PVC-05Fix support battens across the ceilingFor timber joists, screw 25mm x 50mm battens across the joists, at right angles to the way the panels will run, using 4mm x 50mm wood screws driven into the centre of each joist, one every 300mm. For a metal ceiling channel, use self-drilling metal-stud screws, not wood screws, which strip straight through 0.5mm steel, spacing them the same way. Space each batten line no more than 400-450mm apart, and where a batten falls over plasterboard only between joists, fit a timber noggin first rather than relying on the board.

6 length · Timber battens 25x50mm

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1 box · Wood screws 4x50mm

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1 box · Self-drilling metal-stud screws

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PVC-06Fix the starter trim around the wall perimeterOn solid brick or block, drill a 6mm hole 40mm deep, fit a 5mm wall plug, and fix with a 4mm x 40mm screw every 300mm. On plasterboard over timber studs, screw straight into the stud centres where the trim crosses them, and use a plasterboard toggle fixing rated at least 10kg anywhere it falls between studs. On plasterboard over metal studs, use a self-drilling metal-stud screw into the stud, or a hollow-wall metal-stud anchor between them - never a plastic plug or ordinary wood screw. On dot-and-dab, use a fixing long enough to pass through the board and adhesive dabs into the solid masonry behind, typically 60-75mm, checked first with a pilot hole. On lath and plaster, find the timber studs behind the laths (go slowly, the lath nails confuse a magnet), and screw into solid timber rather than the lath itself, which will crumble.

1 pack · Rawlplugs 5mm

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1 box · Screws 4x40mm

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1 pack · Plasterboard toggle fixings

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1 pack · Metal-stud hollow anchors

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PVC-07Cut and fit the first panelMeasure wall to wall and cut the panel with a fine-tooth saw or sharp knife against a straight edge, leaving a 3mm gap at each end for expansion. Slide the tongue edge into the starter trim and push the panel flat against the battens. Screw through the panel's fixing flange into the battens with short PVC-friendly screws, never through the visible face.

1 box · PVC fixing screws 20mm

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PVC-08Fit each panel across the ceilingSlot each new panel into the groove of the one before, push it firmly home to close the joint, then screw through the flange into every batten line. Check every few panels that the run is staying square to the wall - small gaps grow quickly over a run of several metres.

PVC-09Cut around the light and extractor ductBefore fitting the panel that will cover the light or extractor, mark and cut a hole for it with a padsaw or hole saw sized to the fitting. Fit a bezel or trim ring to hide the cut edge once the panel is in place. Keep the power isolated at the consumer unit the whole time you're working near the wiring.

1 each · Light fitting trim ring

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PVC-10Fit the last panel and finishing trimCut the final panel to width, slot it into the previous one, and ease the cut edge under the trim on the opposite wall. Fit edge or coving trim around the whole perimeter to hide the cut ends, mitring the corners at 45°.

4 length · PVC edge/coving trim

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PVC-11Reconnect the light and extractor fanWith the power still off at the consumer unit, reconnect the wiring to the ceiling rose or light fitting and extractor fan exactly as it was before, then refit the fan grille. Prove the circuit is dead again with your socket tester before touching any bare wire, then restore power at the consumer unit and test the light and fan both work.

RULES

KNOW THE RULES

Reconnecting electrics in a bathroom is notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regulations in England. If you're not confident, get a registered electrician to check or complete this part.

PVC-12Seal edges and clean upRun a thin bead of mildew-resistant bathroom sealant where the trim meets the wall tiles for a watertight finish. Wipe down the panels with a damp cloth, lift the dust sheets, and bag up offcuts for disposal. Check the light and extractor work and that the panels sit flat with no visible gaps.

1 tube · Mildew-resistant sanitary sealant

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